Martine Rose typically presents her collections in a non-traditional manner. The 36-year-old designer, who showed her men’s collection off-schedule, staged her fall show at Seven Sisters Market in Tottenham north London, where models strutted through the walkways of the indoor food marketplace.
Rose focused on subverting male archetypes, disrupting the boundaries of masculine and feminine for this retro, normcore range. “I wanted a banker, almost an American psycho type,” said Rose.
She looked to investors, bus drivers and office workers, giving traditional work uniforms feminine touches. Tailoring was also a big part of the collection and new for Rose, clearly something she picked up while consulting for Balenciaga.
Coats and suits had halternecks while waistlines were nipped. Volume was exaggerated at times in trousers, which came either loose and languid or tapered and straight. A floor-length trenchcoat style was fashioned into a halter neck and placed over a dress shirt and striped tie, while the waistline of loose khaki trousers was cinched.
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She juxtaposed shiny satins and soft leathers with wool as seen in a soft powder blue shirt worn over tapered woolen trousers.