“It was about rebellion. We wanted to break the mold to start a new phase for Y-3. But we did through cutting rather than rebuilding,” Lawrence Midwood, Y-3’s senior director of design, said backstage after the show, filling in for his boss Yohji Yamamoto, who was already on his way to catch a plane. Naturally, there was a lot of “cleaning going on, but in an industrial, futuristic kind of way,” he added.
The collection definitely felt more deconstructed and DIY this season with tone-on-tone layering and zipping among its most dominant themes. Cue a boxy T-shirt in technical fabric with a large zipped wrap collar worn over a track top with exaggerated sleeves, which in turn featured zips mimicking incisions along the hems and above the elbows.
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Even a fringed, wide scarf could be taken apart as it was made of zipped parts connecting to the collar of an overcoat. Though mostly athletic in nature, the collection also sported some solid urbanwear staples including a knitted wool poncho with a graphic foil print that mimicked leather and was right on trend.