Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran are all about making clothes that last a lifetime, so it made sense that the inspiration for their fall collection dates back to a time when the concept of buying new clothes every season was but a twinkle in some turn-of-the-century tailor’s eye.
The duo took their cue from German photographer August Sander’s portraits from the early 1900s. “We were inspired by the search for nobility and dignity in workwear clothes and tailored outfits, so we worked a lot on cuts,” Lemaire explained backstage.
Made from sturdy fabrics, including a thorn-proof cloth more commonly used for hunting gear, outerwear was generously proportioned, but never slouchy. Ditto the pooled pants inspired by Britain’s Northern Soul movement, introduced last season and contrasted here with a variety of cropped styles.
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There is the temptation, with a brand that moves in increments, to become somewhat insensitive to nuance, but this lineup deserved close scrutiny. It was full of flawlessly executed staples, of the kind a man may want to keep forever.