Taking a timeout from ath-leisure, Tomas Maier returned to tailoring for fall at Bottega Veneta, delivering a lean and handsome collection straddling city and country.
Long and thin scarves trailed from almost every throat, accentuating the elongated, streamlined silhouette Maier was after. He put men and women in body-hugging double-breasted cashmere flannel suits, the pants gently flaring over square-toed boots. Whereas sweatpants had ruled the Bottega runway in recent seasons, here fedoras added a jaunty touch.
While Milan has so far been all over the map in terms of suit silhouettes, Maier remains a stalwart proponent of double-breasted styles, slightly elongated for suits; shorter and boxier for blazers, which often came in muted lumberjack plaids.
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The bold checks came as an accent — needle-punched into the lapels of a pea coat or the shoulders of a pullover — or the defining element of hefty, double-breasted tweed coats.
Maier’s other major statement was bonded leather, employed for hefty belted trenches and tapered, slightly bunchy leather pants traced with zippers up the front. These were modeled by both sexes.
Ditto for double-breasted tuxedos in dark blue or purple velvet, accentuating how trends for both genders are increasingly converging.