Giorgio Armani wants the youth of today to sit — and smarten — up, even when they’re dressing down. “These clothes are less casual, less easygoing. They’re layered, yes, but not thrown on,” the designer of a fall collection inspired partly by the buttoned-up demeanor of a man in uniform.
Jackets with small lapels headlined this chic collection, and came in unlined, unstructured jersey or Harris Tweed, fitting the body almost like a shirt. Ribbed cardigan jackets were neat and snug with shawl collars, while peacoats, made from rough-cut jersey, were slim and cropped. There were long zippers everywhere — running diagonally over cardigans or placed off-kilter, biker-style, on other knits — which at times were too tricksy. Trousers came long john–style, or wide, with two pleats, balancing the neat, fitted tops.
While the palette was típicamente Armani, with lots of blue, black, caramel and gray, there were flashes of gold, arty brush strokes on jackets, knits and outerwear inspired by Japanese calligraphy.