How to say goodbye? Véronique Nichanian’s au revoir was a joyous one, filled with new looks — and a few old ones, too — with styles that showcased the luxury muscle of Hermès — and occasional quirkiness.
Like Édith Piaf, Nichanian, who’s been at Hermès for 37 years and who holds the trophy for fashion’s longest-serving creative director, said she regrets nothing.
“There is no nostalgia. I’m happy, I’m proud of myself. I work very hard and with passion. I made the style of the Hermès man, with simple lines and I’m honest with myself. I love to play with fabrics and the house has given me so much freedom to design. I make things that are the best for me and for the Hermès man. I’m straight to the point, and I never change my mind,” she said.
Nichanian said that while she plans to stay close to the Hermès family, it was time to move on. “I want to do many things again, and now I have time to do them — to travel, live somewhere different and to do something different.”
Her farewell was full of flourish, from the glossy crocodile suits and coats, which she made for the holiday season in particular, to the luscious shearlings, some lined with fur the color of pink grapefruit, others icy white.
There was a strong retro-aviator theme running through the collection, too, recalling the flying ace and writer Antoine de Saint-Exupéry.
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Models donned shearling bombers, caps with earflaps and coats with stand-up leather buckle collars. They carried boxy overnight bags in shades of sky blue, olive and brown. Military-style onesies made from leather, or that snazzy glassy crocodile, looked great, although maybe not so practical for the cockpit.
Surfaces were colorful and tactile, with Nichanian planting small squares of leather on long, color-blocked scarves, and patchwork sweaters; adding zips to plaid sweaters, and adorning cozy turtlenecks with a blurry flower placement print. Those same delicate flowers became a subtle detail blossoming over the backs of gray tailored suits.
At the end of the show, Hermès paid tribute to Nichanian, showing clips of her taking a bow at various points during her three-plus decades at the house. Friends including Sir Paul Smith, who has known her for 37 years and who said he admires her steadiness and the staying power of her work, had popped to Paris for the day to say goodbye.
It is certainly the end of an era when designers had the discipline, and the luxury, of building a vision over decades and the support of brand owners who take the long view. Of course there are no regrets.
— With contributions from Lily Templeton (Paris)