Ungaro’s Philippe Paubert mustered up commercial savvy with a focus on easy-to-wear, practical pieces in textured materials and lightweight fabrications, homing in on the label’s core. His inspiration was the landscapes of Northern Europe, with a color palette dominated by brown and khaki, underpinned by ivory, and the label’s signature floral shirts given a blurred finish as if diffused by winter light.
The collection had a cozy feel summed up by tactile knits, velvet and corduroy suiting and workwear jackets, and comforting, generously shaped outerwear, in herringbone tweed for instance.
Coats and jackets were largely double-breasted, all the better to envelope the body and suggest volume, but without weight. Alongside the label’s core of versatile unlined jackets in innovative fabrics and smart yet comfy pants, done straight and wide this season, there was innovation to be found in the outerwear selection.
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A classic peacoat in black had hidden pockets and zips down the sides that, when worn open, gave it a more contemporary vibe, while a three-in-one waterproof fishtail coat in khaki had a terry bouclé hoodie lining that worked just as well on its own.
Chunky boat shoes in dégradé leather, or classic ankle boots, accentuated the outdoorsy mood.
New looks for evening — more minimal in the label’s fall offer than for spring — included a spencer jacket in black and a charming tuxedo in chestnut velvet.