Marco Zanini celebrated his personal Independence Day, as he called it, this Wednesday when he opened the doors of his cozy Milanese house to present the first collection he designed under his new namesake label. “One morning last summer I woke up and I said to myself that I was finally ready for this,” the designer said, explaining his decision to go solo after years working for other labels, including Rochas, Schiaparelli and Santoni. “This is an incredibly exciting new challenge and having the freedom to do only what I like is really refreshing.”
Zanini delivered a clear, succinct message where sartorial shapes and details served as foundation, then peppered by delicate and poetic touches.
Impeccable jackets and coats worked in mannish suiting fabrics revealed on the back ribbon drawstrings to alter silhouettes. The same ribbons also appeared on sleek dresses, including a style crafted from pink kimono fabric. The collection was tinged with a retro feel, reflected in the slipdresses embroidered with handmade tiny floral motifs and in the blanket-like trimming of a jacket with slightly padded and embroidered sleeves.
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Zanini’s promising debut delivered sophisticated elegance mixed with a sense of ease, which made it highly covetable.