Rigorous and graphic, essential and minimal, rich and precious. The Jil Sander fall collection was all of this and more. In the span of few seasons, designers Lucie and Luke Meier have established a clear aesthetic for the brand, with which this lineup further evolved. Purity is the word that best describes the essence of their approach. Clean lines, great fabrics treated with couture-like techniques, delicate tones with a predominance of pale shades — everything conveyed a sense of lightness and candor. Revolving around the feminine/masculine duality, the collection featured strong contrasts balanced with a controlled hand. If the pretty ankle-length dresses showed seductive lingerie-inspired macramé details and corsetry constructions, a tailoring sensibility informed the sculpted, 3-D coats and the suits crafted from Japanese wools and felt cut in oversize silhouettes. Layered ribbed knits with elongated shapes, exalted by vertical printed stripes, had a dynamic, urban and almost sporty vibe, which clashed with the nomadic, artisanal feel of the blanket-inspired deconstructed poncho and the long vest worn over wide-leg pants. Despite the sometimes extremely sharp cuts, the collection was infused with a sense of cozy comfort, embodied by a silk padded maxi jacket with coordinated pants, while the lineup’s most poetic side was symbolized by the delicate prints of herons and swallows appearing on a white crewneck dress and a pair of oversize pants. And, even if one swallow doesn’t make a summer, it can definitely anticipate joyful things. We will see when resort comes.