“A love letter for everything I do, deeply, with passion, with truth. Even if it’s clothes, I really wanted to emphasize the idea I have of a beautiful woman, that has nothing to do with fashion, really,” Guillaume Henry said backstage. It could be felt in the collection — his strongest for the house yet.
Elaborating on last season’s military-themed show, he opened with a run of red pants and coats with frogging or toggle details and black bands that offered a modern, sleek uniform counterpoint to the girly sensuality of the lingerie-inspired looks in crinkled silks. Veiled tricorn hats lent a funereal tone.
There was a sense of casualness in the line’s sexiness, such as on the total-look ribbed knit pant and sweater silhouette that had an edgy fluidity. Ditto for the black dress with a deep V-neck and matching bra.
Other highlights included a gray velvet suit with a lead-gray shirt with gold wheat jewelry details. Big belt buckle embellishments gave a slight Eighties feel.
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Outerwear ranged from powder pink and baby blue quilted dressing gown coats that were pure grandma chic to a copper latex cape that moved like silk.
“This is a strong woman but with sensibility and fragility,” said Henry.
The designer’s handlers forbid all questions about his future at the house. WWD reported Friday that this fall collection would be his last, which the house refuted as “pure speculation that does not respond to reality. Any significant information about the brand is always addressed by the Nina Ricci press office.”