The maudlin soundtrack of Nirvana’s “Smells Like Teen Spirit” and Radiohead’s “Creep” gave no indication of what Elie Saab’s vast fall collection of elaborately embellished dresses and gowns was about. The lineup was not a downer. There was a Victorian influence afoot in an abundance of black gowns with high collars and long sleeves, but the vibe was less mourning and propriety than down-to-party indulgence thanks to rich, colorful florals and ornate folk embroideries that felt more plucked from an Eastern European fairy-tale than Charles Dickens. Saab infused the look with a glam rock vibe via feather trims, long neck scarves, short top hats, lace head wraps and vampy over-the-knee boots. The designer also got in on logomania in an improbably discreet way with an allover emblem monogram that blended quite seamlessly on printed dresses.