Alessandro Dell’Acqua said the inspiration for his fall collection for No. 21 was the majorette. But somehow, that baton-twirling symbol of wholesome beauty got lost in translation in the designer’s ode to Americana, as seen through a glass darkly.
That wasn’t a bad thing. After all, who wants to look at acres of sequined spandex? Instead, Dell’Acqua blended post-World War II references with a dash of punk and a dose of his signature — and uniquely Italian — sense of embellishment, resulting in a vaguely David Lynch-ian take on retro tough girl glamour.
“I love the image of the majorette,” the designer said backstage. “But in the melancholic way — it’s not very funny.” This girl likes to sparkle after dark, flashing ornate rhinestone motifs from a thigh-grazing LBD. The neon signs of Fifties-era Las Vegas glittered from a sequined swing coat, with a leopard-print collar for added pizzazz.
The kitschy flourishes, which extended to crystal-studded slingback kitten heels, were balanced with his signature androgynous touches — as if the majorette and her boyfriend had got their clothes mixed in the wash. It made for a compelling mix.
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Military-flavored olive pants featured thick strips of crystals down the sides, while parkas came in fancy fabrications, such as ponyskin with gold inserts. Mohair sweaters and lumberjack shirts had grungy undertones, while the use of vinyl — in off-kilter shades of camel and lemon yellow — gave cropped pants and lace-trimmed skirts a kinky twist.
Majorette hats, in graphic black-and-white with a silver chain, and necklaces with whistle pendants were tongue-in-cheek reminders of the season’s muse. But make no mistake about it — the lady is a vamp.