Keeping in line with the rebellious nonconforming spirit that’s encapsulated the brand since inception, designers Esther Gauntlett and Jenny Cheng went underground for their runway show, the last of the night on the last official day of New York Fashion Week. And they literally went underground. The tight lineup was staged at the basement bar of Hotel Americano, where models and nonmodels alike wore seductively cut clothes in various states of undress.
The design duo went to Paris for the first time last spring and wanted to underscore their latest collection with an essence of holiday escapism — even if that meant lounging around in your hotel room. “The vibe we were going for was trying lots of things on in your hotel room, and maybe you’ve got your outfit on but there’s a robe over it, and then you’re on your toes pretending you have heels trying it on,” the designers said backstage after the show.
Scandalous near-exposing dresses exuded the most seductive quality of bedroom allure. They were cut loose and low on the chest, featured barely supportive straps, or had some major side bosom action. They were by far the most bewitching pieces in the assembly. But a girl on vacay needs her options, so the duo showed Lurex knits, faux-fur separates (including an unconventional but comfy-looking pair of loose pants), cropped T-shirts and a pair of pleated butter capris. A night out might require the unapologetically racy blue cage knit catsuit. Overall, the clothes were more tame, but retained a sense of subversive nonchalance that made the collection interesting.