Kirk Millar and Sam Linder presented their women’s and men’s collections in a single runway show. Instead of citing a specific theme, the designers said they focused more on the actual design process in order to deliver clothes that looked less casual and more mature. To reach their goal, they introduced a wider range of materials, including an abundance of leather and fur, and developed more constructed silhouettes.
The show also marked the debut of Linder’s first full women’s ready-to-wear collection. Despite the evident effort to convey a more elevated look, resulting, for example, in a pretty sartorial suit with sculpted details, as well as in a ribbed knit maxidress with exaggerated kimono sleeves, the collection lacked coherence. There was a bit of everything here, from a futuristic version of a Victorian jacket crafted from laminated wool and a fringed leather dress accessorized with a belt that wrapped around the arm for a bondage effect, to sheer dresses embellished with shimmering embroideries and jeans that incorporated corsets. Millar and Linder also took an irreverent approach by adding a certain X-rated “detail” on the crotch of a pair of jeans, which seemed a tad out of place, especially at a time when women are marching to defend their rights.
The designers’ ideas were better realized with the men’s offering, which included a few interesting and covetable pieces. They played with perception and pushed things forward with denim silhouettes. Linder and Millar placed denim pockets and waistbands on the bottom of a JNCO-influenced jean (those ultrawide pants from the Nineties), and attached pockets to the leg of a slim style, which they called the “jean jacket pant.” They also worked well with leather, producing a slick leather jacket that is sure to appeal to buyers, and leather pants inspired by chaps. Another highlight was a cropped jacket covered in panels of striped fabric and a gray suit with interesting fabric details that will appeal to a consumer who maybe never considered wearing one. Although the men’s lineup could use more focus, the designers did create clothes with a point of difference.