When she founded her collection in Berlin in 2013, designer Sophie Oemus named it Maisonnoée to suggest “house of peace/strength/tranquility.” In these troubled times, Oemus added “Courage,” as her fall collection is titled, sending out a parade of can-do city women — and not a few Bond girls. These all had a penchant for black leather, sometimes accented with suede, other times with solid or floral printed silk, cashmere serving as the last link in the Maisonnoée materials lineup. Silhouettes featured the leanest of leather pencil skirts in assorted lengths, poured on stretch leather leggings and pants, and sharp-shouldered leather jackets and tops. Oemus also showed a softer side, letting leather, silk or cashmere flow in long skirts and dresses, shorter swing skirts and easy cardigan coats. There were many “is that really leather?” moments, as in printed parkas, or a leather shirt with a V-seamed bodice, but it was the more straightforward, black styles that more clearly supported her intention of providing “not only elegance and grace, but strength and power.”