The opening look, a velvet-appliquéd slender gown and long, swingy vest, instantly telegraphed Naeem Khan’s charming new direction. The key was the color mixes — lots of them — used to create a crocheted or knitted effect that went beyond the more predictable beaded looks so popular with his Middle Eastern customers. Those classics were there, too, but were eclipsed by fall’s more elaborate and considered motifs.
It wasn’t just the abundant palette that made Khan’s offering so strong. A black-and-white ankle-length illusion dress and all sorts of gold, silver and mixed metallics were executed in arresting embroidered patterns — a black tulle skirt and strapless gold top, a tailored jacket and trousers with gold-bullion-thread embroidery, and a hand-cut metallic leather cocktail dress — all mirrored Khan’s ease with a sportier approach to his signature shimmer.