“I’m just taking it easy,” was Jason Wu’s assessment of his attitude for fall during a preview the day before his show. He didn’t feel like bothering with a singular theme, instead going the way of the proverbial wardrobe to address his customer’s stylistic whims. Funnily enough, this laid-back moment of “zen,” as Wu called it, yielded one of his most energized collections.
Polished good girls will always be the backbone of Wu’s brand, even when he sexes them up or explores their mature, high-minded side. Here, he did both and then some, handling many moods — youthful, seductive, serious, happy — with a sense of confidence that felt natural. A royal blue sleeveless top over matching tailored pants were classically chic from the front, but the top was open in back, loosely fastened with ribbons, a motif that recurred throughout the lineup, releasing a breath of relaxed allure. There were wispy nothings of slipdresses and sturdy tailoring in bright windowpane checks. Short hemlines underscored a young zing, while bright fur collars added vibrant quirk.
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Tying off the collection’s depth of personality with offbeat charm were accessories, including drop earrings strung with a row of three pearls and rich velvet shoes — a low, chunky square-heel style and a slipper/pump hybrid. Operating in chill mode works for Wu.