Bibhu Mohapatra seemed to have a lot on his mind for fall. There were so many ideas for evening — some elegant and beautiful, others not so much. The one thing that did tie this multifaceted collection together was the dragonfly, which done in leather or sequins as a belt or a choker, adorned most of the collection’s pieces. The most impressively placed were on a slim cutaway coat in ivory double-faced cashmere and on a lean red Chesterfield.
Mohapatra is a designer who always does real and accessible clothes — often quite imaginatively. But this season, leather body harnesses on cocktail dresses, “skin graft” hosiery worn with almost everything, and superhero cape-backs made some of his looks a bit too aggressive. Maybe, given that “warrior dresses” were listed on the run of show, it was no accident.