The invitation to Cristiano Burani’s fall fashion show featured a print blending tiger heads and red roses. The collection itself included outfits like razor-pleated Lurex or leather skirts, with accessories such as fur-covered clogs and belts with metallic lion-head clasps.
Was it a coincidence, or had Burani watched too many videos of recent Gucci shows? Several other items triggered a perverse game of “guess the original designer.” Beige ribbed jersey wide-leg pants – Stella McCartney? An oversize crocodile bomber jacket – Alexandre Vauthier?
No single designer holds the monopoly over any of these items, but by stacking up references to other collections, Burani appeared to lack a voice of his own. With its mix of oversize trouser suits and Nineties-era cropped tops, the rest of his disjointed collection did little to dispel that impression.