With its red spotlights and models standing on metal podiums, the set at Isa Arfen resembled a nightclub, with the designer saying she looked to club kids’ “dressing up as an escape and their living for the night.”
The fabrics were rich — all velvets, silks and taffetas — and the pieces classic, including wardrobe staples such as high-waist velvet pants, silk shirts with incorporated scarves, Paul Poiret-style bows or exaggerated rounded collars.
Silhouettes ranged from the androgynous to the overtly feminine, including great smock dresses in white and rose gold with overblown ruching at the neckline. Outerwear came well represented in giant quilted jackets in velvet or technical nylon, or as ladylike princess coats in crushed velvet.
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