Peter Som’s fall collection for Blue Les Copains, marking the first time the label has been on the New York Fashion Week calendar, was all about infusing the house codes of Les Copains with a downtown sensibility. That meant taking the classic knitwear and sportswear silhouettes the brand is known for and tweaking them with unexpected details. A voluminous brocade dress, for example, came with a top made from jersey, while rabbit furs were mixed in with more casual elements like cashmere sweaters, poplin shirts and wool blazers.
“Two of my favorite looks are actually the simplest: the jumpsuit and the red sweater and pant set,” Som said. “It’s the idea of underdesigning; there’s something to be said for beautiful sportswear pieces that have that Italian quality.” In a Seventies-inspired palette, Som’s lineup was both youthful and refined.