Creative director Louise Trotter worked up a cocooning collection for Joseph filled with swathes of cashmere, felt, shearling and lamb’s wool. The mood was wistful: “I had this feeling of wanting to be…wrapped in protection…I think probably a reaction to things that are very austere,” said the designer after the show. Looking to a sculpture by American artist Robert Morris made from cascading strips of industrial felt, Trotter crafted her fabrics into shapes that balanced the fluid with the geometric.
One plaid coat resembled a blanket, with dramatic drapes and folds that enveloped the body, while a camel skirt wrapped around the legs and was paired with a fur tank. Inventive knitwear that nodded to minimal Nineties silhouettes was also a standout, offering a more approachable take on the sculptural silhouette. One long, ribbed black sweater was cut with oversize sleeves, revealing one shoulder, while a black knit maxidress hugged the body and was cut to show a sliver of hip.