“I wanted to make it a bit more carefree,” David Koma said before his fall-winter show, “carefree” being code word for the stiff ruffles, bright colors, knitwear and A-line shapes that enlivened his usual parade of sexy, body-con fashions.
Koma, who also designers Mugler in Paris, also name-checked Pierre Cardin and André Courrèges, which inspired his Space Age minidresses with jutting skirts, portholes of flesh, and gleaming patent leather belts. They were pert and youthful, the most inventive ones embroidered with swirling macramé.
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Leather pockets and panels of crystal embellished lean jumpsuits and pants, and the slim scuba dresses slashed up the front to flash the legs.