With supporters including Kenzo Takada and Chopard’s Caroline Scheufele cheering him on from the front row, Stéphane Rolland delivered a confident 10th-anniversary comeback show.
Presented on the stage of the amphitheater of the Opera Bastille, the procession of grand gowns was like a showcase of walking sculptures (think his signature corolla gowns and purist column dresses with gravity-defying orchid flourishes at the shoulder).
Bringing some warmth to the hallmark black-and-white lineup were the looks embellished with tribal references like a linear black totem dress with a cubic train and column of carved faces in gold silicon down one side, which was striking. The couturier also cut the profiles of faces into a white crepe fitted top paired with a “waterfall” skirt in glossy black fox, which had a Surrealist twist. Other looks jangled with gold jewelry, with the tribal theme climaxing in a capacious zebra dress covered in hand-painted stripes.
Centered on sculptural looks with artistic tendencies, the collection was fit for true divas. Cue a performance by mezzo-soprano Béatrice Uria-Monzon to wrap the show.
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