Maybe Mikey Madison, the star of “Anora,” had something to do with it, or maybe it was Pamela Anderson, the lead character in “The Last Showgirl.” Or could it have been Marlon Brando in “The Godfather” who gave this collection a dose of Las Vegas glitter?
The Emporio team took playing cards as their theme, tucking embellished versions into the front of tailored jackets, and using giant hearts as patch pockets on a bright red velvet jacket.
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Spade, club and diamond shapes tumbled over a long navy coat and a satin bomber jacket, while an abstract geometric motif inspired by cards and their colors spilled over everything from pantaloons tucked into knee-high boots to swingy skirts and frothy scarves.
Amid a major luxury slowdown, this collection was no gamble. Instead, it was filled with fine tailoring and rich fabrics and textures that were pure Emporio, and built to last.
Some of the pieces had an oversize mannish feel, and looked terrific, from the gray godfather suit, accessorized with delicate pocket chains, to long, sweeping coats. A gray one had dark patent leather piping, another was done in fuzzy checks, while a showstopper style was made from clouds of black shearling.
Suits were laid-back and fun. They included a bomber jacket with fluid trousers made from soft wide wale corduroy and a lineup of velvet suits in bright red, deep green and black. Other, short jackets came with white collars and black ties, or big rosettes at the neck.
Eveningwear was elegant and easy. Long black dresses came with little velvet waistcoats, while a trio of embellished playing cards popped from the front pocket of a black velvet suit. Oversized rosettes bloomed from the hems of snappy cocktail dresses, while a strapless prom style was clean-edged and classy.
No tricks here — the fashion house played its hand, and won.