The fall Brunello Cucinelli collection was developed starting from the tension and harmony between instinct and reason, which he believes drive our choices and are complementary. This dualism translated into a lineup that had a relaxed look — despite the increasingly sophisticated treatments and techniques to produce standout knits and statement coats.
Instinct relates to authenticity and craftsmanship, and “the senses that make us feel good. Reason, on the other hand, is reflected by the finest tailoring, the quality of materials and products,” he said — and there was all of that in spades. Cucinelli continues to evolve and elevate the collections and for fall he showed a relaxed lineup that belied sophisticated techniques.
“The goal is to offer unique pieces, exclusive and artisanal but not to present a creative act as an end in itself. While precious, the garments should be worn with ease,” said Cucinelli, adding that “imperfect” touches can add “authenticity and charm with out-of- place details.” But don’t expect any wacky elements, as the “imperfect” was exemplified by a simple A-line chevron dress that had sparkling baguette-cut crystals placed on the neckline.
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An undercurrent of equestrian themes ran through the collection with riding pants, lavallière ties, waterproof capes and ribbons on poplin shirts. Full skirts, mini or midi, were worn with riding boots featuring monili-embellished spurs.
The British flair of Prince of Wales checks, tweeds and tartans was seen in the looks but also on details stitched on denim under-collars and waist-defining belts.
There were several corduroy fluid pants or coulottes, and beautiful trenches and shearling coats. A showstopper was an alpaca and mohair coat that reproduced the scales of a crocodile, lit up by tiny sequins, in a soft buttery hue.
Knitted cardigans reproduced the Prince of Wales pattern and crochet was introduced in a mixed media model.