Daniel Fletcher’s debut show for the Guangzhou-based label Mithridate drew a crowd the brand would never have dared to dream of before, and the collection he offered was promising enough that showgoers are likely to want to come back for more next season.
Building around the quintessentially English archetypes that Fletcher has played with from the beginning of his career — Oxbridge prepsters, sports uniforms, Mick Jagger, David Hockney, and Princess Diana — the new identity he revealed on Friday felt clear, eccentric, yet accessible.
The key looks included preppy knits in pastel with striped shirts under, Mao suit-influenced jackets with rock ‘n’ roll polka dot ties, sequins and feathers here and there, and an abundant supply of sleek outerwear in navy, gray, brown and white.
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Fletcher said he also wanted to change the perception that made-in-China equates to poor quality.
“What I wanted to show here is that there is amazing craftsmanship in China, and I’ve worked with the team in Guangzhou to make sure that we’re achieving that. I hope that Mithridate can be taken seriously as a global brand in the luxury market,” added Fletcher.
A great example of craftsmanship was the final black gown, which was adorned with hundreds of hand-embellished beads.