For the fall season, designer Jonathan Simkhai was directly influenced by the abstract works of American sculptor Anne Truitt. Truitt’s bold use of geometry and color directly influenced his designs — imbuing the collection with a sleeker feel through sharp tailoring and polished feminine styles with ample modern, geometric handcrafted embellishments (in lieu of prior collections’ earthy elements). Bohemian elements continue to work well for the label, but fall’s ideas signaled an intriguing new direction.
The look: Sleek and polished with intriguing textural ornamentations.
Quote of note: “A lot of the color inspiration came from Anne Truitt, a 1960s-era sculptor. She was one of the first female sculptors whose creations were made by hand. I was so intrigued by the idea of handwork and modernity — being able to do something that feels worked on by hand, but still keeping it sleek and polished.”
Key pieces: A vegan shearling coat with whipstitched details; a continuation of space-dye knits; glitzy handworked sequin dresses and skirts covered in cascading, geometric paillettes; dresses with modern handcrafted accents (monochromatic numbers with graphic, irregular cutouts bordered in hand-embellished diamanté ropes, or knit net dresses with tonal stapled closures); plenty of fringed layers (on space-dye engineered striped wovens, as an extended passementarie hem on a hand-pleated slip, or as beaded strands hanging from a fitted textural cardigan); sleek tailoring with draped and pleated panels.
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The takeaway: In addition to a quiet industry preview during New York Fashion Week, the designer worked with two tech companies to render his designs for the digital metaverse runway, “pushing craft into a new era.”