Between Julia Fox sporting Carhartt jeans in the Paris couture front row, and Bottega Veneta bringing its last runway show to Detroit, the Midwest is starting to get its fashion due, not only for its endlessly influential workwear tradition, but for its rich style history and pop culture resonance.
Elena Velez, who splits her time between her hometown of Milwaukee and New York, has been on the pulse of elevating regional Midwestern heritage and craft since founding her gritty glam label in 2018. She’s dressed a lot of celebrities in custom creations along the way, including Solange Knowles, Ariana Grande and Grimes.
For fall, she continued her brand journey using materials such as laminated military canvas, repurposed parachutes, Lake Michigan ship sails, leather, gauze and wool to create a heavily deconstructed collection of tailored jackets and military pants with raw seams, spidery knits and dresses with surface treatments such as rust and tea stains.
The look: “Mad Max” matriarchy.
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Quote of note: “These treatments create a unique collaboration with the wearer and initiate a living work of art showcasing the true marks of authenticity and embracing the unglamorous happenstance of life,” the designer said in the notes.
Standout pieces: Cream corset cutout dress, cream spidery knit maxidress with pockets, white raw edge leather cropped top and black deconstructed flared pants, coated canvas bra top and pants with garter details.
The takeaway: There’s a ’90s, early Rick Owens quality to Velez’s Goth-grunge styles using upcycled and found materials that makes her one to watch, especially if she is able (and wants) to develop some signature, more commercial styles. The collection could also benefit from more of a focus on fit.