“Fragility” was a word Luisa Beccaria used frequently to describe her whimsical fall collection, presented via a video shot inside the studio of artist Sofia Cacciapaglia, a family friend whom Beccaria scouted for the Venice Biennale.
The designer has consistently promoted a certain kind of femininity: romantic and ethereal for women who are adolescents at heart and whose lives unfold in some idyllic places, be it Capri’s stacks or a secluded farmhouse in Sicily.
For fall, the charming and delicate vibe was plied into more quotidian pieces to mix and match and layer with gusto. She wants her customers to love her fashion over and over again. Mind you, she’s not forgoing billowing and romantic gowns — tulle overload here — but she’s, for example, capitalizing on the fit-waisted shirt dress Madonna owns a dozen of. Talk about brand loyalty.
They came in silk georgette or velvet with a tromp l’oeil moiré motif overlaid with delicate floral prints, which also appeared on gently oversized bouclé coats with lurex threads worn with matching pencil skirts and same-pattern stockings.
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Heading into the cooler season, she envisioned her Courchevel-going friends donning delicate chiffon dresses and blouses — the latter worn with suede bias-cut frocks — bearing micro florals in a nocturnal palette under shearling coats trimmed with passementerie, developed in tandem with fur maestro Carlo Tivoli.