Fashion paradoxes and the “endless summer” that Olivier Rousteing has been dreaming of after coming off a spate of new projects for the house fed into the characteristically high-impact, craft-intensive collection.
On his signature body-con dresses, the designer mixed traditional and tech ingredients like duchesse satin and high-shine electric blue foil resembling candy wrappers.
A mosaic pattern nodding to classic Parisian bistro flooring was a key leitmotif. It moved from a muslin-lined handicraft-intensive dress made from a latticework of diamond-shaped wooden beads with raffia details at the shoulder to an elaborate mirror and glass version with a palm-tree print and a black-and-white capsule that the designer described as a nod to the French seaside resort of Deauville.
Best encapsulating the notion of raw-meets-refined was a striking mosaic-print hessian dress with leg-of-mutton sleeves. He also paired a rock T-shirt with a mermaid skirt fusing pearl-embroidered panels with sunset-print sequins.
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In the mix were pearl-studded tweed suits, a safari line housing relaxed-chic knotted T-shirt dresses, and fringed white viscose knits that Rousteing referred to as “summer furs.” The designer also debuted a swimwear capsule that included a style based on the house’s signature double-breasted jacket, replete with the gold buttons.
For the men’s wear, which played out as a mirror reflection of the summery mood, the designer pushed color, with a focus on pastels and fluorescents. Items ranged from destroyed denim jackets in vintage washes to after-dark black and mirror marinières. “It’s more and more about being myself and playing with more codes,” he said.