Milan Fall 2023: Tailoring Is Back

MILAN — Milan was buzzing and men’s fashion week added to the hubbub, as retailers were excited by the trends they saw.

One thing was clear: tailoring is back, but in its new fluid and relaxed version, with dropped shoulders on deconstructed jackets and wide-leg pants. Retailers found this look in tune with the times, as men continue to seek comfort but want to have a more elegant approach to fashion.

“A word that best sums up Milan Men’s Fashion Week is ‘heated.’ It was an inspiring week filled with confident, thought-provoking fashion and an emphasis on dressing up,” said Reginald Christian, men’s fashion market manager at Saks.

“This was in my opinion the best Milan Fashion Week of the last couple years, both in terms of energy and quality of the show,” said Raphaël Deray, buyer for men ready-to-wear, luxury and designers, retail and e-commerce at Printemps.

Prada, Zegna, Fendi, Brioni and Brunello Cucinelli were some of the brands that were praised by buyers, as was Marco De Vincenzo’s first menswear collection for Etro. Gucci’s first collection designed by a team after Alessandro Michele’s exit was seen as a positive palate cleanser and first step in a new direction.

Topcoats, bombers and double-breasted blazers were all over the runways. JW Anderson’s Wellipet clogs are also expected to be hot tickets. Double-faced, soft cashmere, and vicuña blended fabrics, as well as rich textures, gave depth and value to the garments. Corduroy suits were also a strong trend, as were jacquard and intarsia knits. Eveningwear was back, translated through velvet, shiny surfaces, sequins and embellishments.

Here is what retailers said:

Reginald Christian, men’s fashion market manager at Saks

Favorite collections: Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ fall 2023 collection for Prada prompted an honest conversation about the current state of the industry by encouraging us to explore the fundamentals of fashion, simplicity and comfort dressing. The collection showcased a brilliant play on proportions, volume and texture seen in the pairing of cocoon-shaped nylon bombers with slim black trousers and chocolate suede blazers layered over fresh cotton duvet vests. Topcoats with vivid orange racing stripes and functional zippers added a modernized retro touch. Fendi delivered a collection full of heat with an abundance of textures, sexy silhouettes and magnificent nods to craftsmanship, playfulness, and sophistication. There was an energetic dance of sartorial tailoring and refined sportswear from start to finish, encouraging the concept of dressing up without sacrificing excitement. Outerwear was the standout of the collection, shown in excellent styles and proportions like long puffer jackets, shearling coats, and voluminous, double-faced cashmere topcoats. Cozy, cashmere knitwear in timeless colors like gray, navy, oatmeal, and black complemented the outstanding outerwear lineup. Alessandro Sartori continues to expand and evolve the sartorial language of Italian craftsmanship in his collections for Zegna. This season, he closed out the week with a perfectly balanced collection of leisurewear and elevated styles that evoked a sense of ease and flexibility. Setting the tone for innovation, the show opened with a soothing gray relaxed short-sleeve suit, followed by a display of elongated coats, cropped bomber jackets, and blazers without lapels or collars. Energetic pops of aurora yellow, wine red and burgundy hues were skillfully used throughout the collection.

Best presentation concept: At Prada’s show inside the Deposito di Fondazione, the room was completely redefined when the ceiling slowly rose and transformed the show space from intimate to grand. The soundtrack took us on a beautiful crescendo journey that captivated everyone in attendance to eagerly look forward to the next look. Held at Casa Cucinelli, Brunello Cucinelli’s presentation felt like a warm invitation into the home of the designer. Models, dressed in a mix of reimagined classic styles, strolled around the thoughtfully designed space accentuated by impeccable garment racks filled with winter knitwear, super-lightweight down jackets and handcrafted bags. Canali presented a well-edited collection against a backdrop of forest videography in a nod to the brand’s commitment to sustainability. A sense of evolution in menswear was felt throughout the collection, which featured relaxed wool trousers, corduroy suits, and teddy fabric overshirts.

Trendspotting: If there is one outerwear style that will be important for fall, it’s the topcoat. Designers presented a substantial array of topcoats that included both voluminous and deconstructed styles. The double-breasted blazer will also be big for fall, and the versatility of fits and fabrications presented this season feels fresh and exciting. The abundance of innovative, lightweight hiking boots throughout the collections displayed a clear trend of thoughtfully designed footwear that is both functional and comfortable. 

Must-have item: A pair of Fin dress shoes and a tote bag with a built-in water bottle from Prada, a vintage-inspired shearling bomber jacket from Ralph Lauren Purple Label, or an item from JW Anderson’s whimsical footwear collaboration with Wellipets.

General comment on the season: Refreshed tailoring and rich textures were the cornerstone of the collections, highlighted by sharp, directional sportswear. There was an evident appreciation and respect for sartorial flair, minimalism and elevation, best seen in collections from Prada, Fendi, Gucci, Zegna, and Kiton. Designers like Jonathan Anderson for JW Anderson and Marco de Vincenzo for Etro encouraged us to stand for uniqueness, individuality and style.

Bruce Pask, men’s fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus

Favorite collections: Prada’s collection of proportion-driven suits, topcoats, standout shoes, and structured totes was a winner. Fendi’s quietly beautiful, texture-driven outerwear and shimmering evening wardrobe, Brioni’s focus on luxurious materials and expert tailoring, and Brunello Cucinelli’s beautifully crafted, signature mix of tailoring and sportswear staples were all standouts. Alessandro Sartori’s monochromatic dressing and focus on thoughtful production at Zegna continues to be hugely influential.  

Best presentation concept: Prada’s perception-shifting environment and collection was quite extraordinary. We watched as the entire low ceiling of a vast, dimly lit space slowly, almost imperceptibly, started rising at the start of the show to reveal a bright, expansive height, only to lower to its origin for the finale. This visual play and twist on proportion was beautifully represented in the collection that featured cropped bomber jackets and slim, elongated toggle coats and military parkas, as well as boxy tailored jackets paired with trim pants. The larger-than-life elevated pinball ramps that extended above the Fendi runway and a pulsing Giorgio Moroder disco-era soundtrack infused the luxurious, softly sculpted collection with an infectious energy.

    
Trendspotting: There is a continuing focus on voluminous, exaggerated proportions with elongated shapes, dropped shoulders, cropped jackets and, importantly, the wide-leg pant which have been dominating the runways.  The long, floor-grazing coat shape was seen at Prada, Fendi and Gucci. Monochromatic and tonal dressing gave a spare elegance to collections and an ease of execution for the customer. Plush, double-faced, soft cashmere, and vicuña blended fabrics have given the menswear this season an incredible hand feel at Brioni, Brunello Cucinelli, Zegna and Canali while Prada offered the coziness and comfort of soft suedes and duvet-inspired pieces. Designers have taken a shine to the evening category, offering creative takes on “after-five” dressing with sparkling, shimmering jackets and bejeweled suit separates as well as pailletted pants at Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci and Giorgio Armani.  

Must-have item: A pair of Prada’s chunky Tyrolian-inspired trekking shoes, a sparkling jacket or pailletted pant to catch the light on your evening out, a soft, unconstructed double-faced jacket, a head-to-toe monochromatic look, a tailored topcoat. 

General comment on the season: There has been an overarching elegance and purity in the collections here in Milan, a refreshing refinement and focus on design and use of luxurious materials. Brioni designer Norbert Stumpfl referred to his own richly tailored collection as “soft and enveloping,” a phrase which I think can nicely embrace many of the collections we saw in Milan. Menswear is getting dressed up, with an ease and a relaxed feel that is overwhelmingly appealing and sure to resonate with our Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman luxury customer.   

Jian DeLeon, men’s fashion and editorial director at Nordstrom

Favorite collections: Prada, Gucci, Fendi, Zegna, Canali, JW Anderson, Our Legacy.

Best presentation concept: Between the Giorgio Moroder soundtrack and the incredible set design featuring a Fendi-branded track and silver Fendi-monogrammed mirror balls rolling down it, the show was equally as exhilarating as the collection. 

Trendspotting: There’s definitely a return to more classic menswear, especially in heritage plaids and outerwear like balmacaans and duffle coats. 

Must-have item: JW Anderson’s frog clogs are already going viral on social media, so I wouldn’t be surprised if that buzz continues when they release.

General comment on the season: The moment Gucci kicked off the week with a pared-down menswear show focusing more on the clothes, it continued a precedent towards collections that feel eminently wearable but still covetable. There’s a renewed excitement about materials and craftsmanship, reinforced by Prada’s use of suedes and motifs inspired by industrial grated floors.

Damien Paul, head of menswear at Matchesfashion

Favorite collections: Presentations from Milan Fashion Week stalwarts such as Brioni, Tod’s and Brunello Cucinelli offered an overarching sense of luxury and uncomplicated design, blending conversation and interaction with textured, beautiful clothing. JW Anderson continues to break the mould with his collections, yet peppered throughout were protective coats.

Best presentation concept: Gucci’s return demanded the first spotlight and for me, Prada’s immersive environment, from the soundtrack to the precision of cut demanded a different energy. It was fantastic.

Trendspotting: The investment coat is king. From leather, suede, and shearling to overcoats both structured and louche. MA1s were sometimes contained and other times oversized and sculptural. Tailoring and precise cut trousers anchor a grounded silhouette. Luxurious fabrics, texture and form play a dominant role.

Must-have item: A slim cut, perfect, Prada suit.

General comment on the season: It has been enlightening to see designers honing house codes and showing precise, timeless, anti-gimmick collections that focus on their dedicated customers. Milan showcased collections for modern men that prioritise sophistication and luxury. There has been a definite sense of containment, but the most successful designers found an elevated fashion perspective to move things forward.

Raphaël Deray, buyer for men ready-to-wear, luxury and designers, retail and e-commerce at Printemps

Favorite collections: Prada, Magliano, Etro and Zegna.

Trendspotting: A genderless fashion with men wearing skirts and dresses (layered over a trouser or not), sheer tops, corsets, leg warmers and more. It was ubiquitous at almost all the shows in Milan. Also, a quite glossy fashion with a lot of sequins, on denim, knitwear, skirts as well as some shiny fabrics. Overall, I would say simplicity is back (but not minimalist) with casual looks, relatively innocent sometimes, a classic and fluid tailoring, not so much of layering or basic colorways.

Must-have items: Get yourself a skirt, a large point-collar Prada shirt and a long coat (ankle length).

Budgets: Budgets are up as demand is growing.

Buying process: Same as always, but more and more forcing myself to buy into categories that were not so usual to men. 

Simon Longland, head of menswear and womenswear at Harrods

Favorite collections: Alessandro Sartori’s showcase at Zegna was a clear example of a designer at the top of their game. A truly exceptional collection, and a masterclass in cut, form, proportion, fabrication, color and execution. And the beautiful color palette of rich neutrals contrasted with bold pops of ochre and red made for a utterly wearable winter wardrobe. Prada showcased another collection that felt resolutely rooted in the brand’s DNA. From the strict, pure Prada tailoring that is so fiercely successful to sharply tailored trousers and subtle boxy jackets and collared knits — the collection perfectly encapsulated a modern wardrobe. Fendi showcased a menswear collection full of truly covetable pieces — modern menswear at its best. A wardrobe perfectly designed for every aspect of a glamorous city life in an ultra-sophisticated wash of grays, blues, browns and ivory. I expect waiting lists for the standout pieces, which, for me, were the ankle-length coats, draped jackets, capes and luxurious leathers.

Trendspotting: Bombers were everywhere this season, and it’s a trend I expect is here to stay; from classic and pared back at Zegna to oversized or cropped from Gucci and Prada — there really is a bomber for every occasion. Tailoring continues to dominate the runway across many collections and it’s really great to see each creative director make the style their own. From Dolce’s foray back to its tailoring roots and JW Anderson’s exploration of casual suiting, Miuccia and Raf at Prada lead the way as the masters in tailoring and season on season deliver clean, sharp tailoring that has become so iconic to the house. Wide-leg silhouettes were present in almost every show this season. The fitted and flared tailoring we have seen from Gucci throughout the previous seasons evolved and showcased wide and loose trousers in a myriad of textures, fabrics and embellishments and of course Zegna’s wide-leg silhouettes were beautifully draped and enough to win over even the most ardent devotee of a narrow leg. Statement outerwear, from Fendi & Dolce’s dramatic capes to floor-sweeping overcoats from Prada, Fendi, Gucci and bold intarsia patterns Zegna and Etro.

Must-have item: A statement coat worn over a beautifully tailored jacket and a wide-leg trouser.

Justin Berkowitz, men’s fashion director at Bloomingdale’s

Favorite collections: With the return of customer interest in tailoring and more formal footwear, there has been a palpable energy shift in Milan this season. It’s been a strong few days of shows with great collections and a renewed sense of excitement in the city. This was evident outside the Fondazione Prada, where thousands of fans of the Korean group Enhyphen gathered to see the band as they attended the show. On the runway there, a stellar mix of minimal tailored looks, hand-waxed suede outerwear, and bomber jackets referenced long-standing brand hallmarks imbued with the newer influence of Raf Simons. Dolce & Gabbana, focused primarily on sleek tailoring and eveningwear in black, was party ready, with plenty of sex appeal, and great energy. Brioni continues to look exceptionally strong, managing to look both incredibly aspirational and completely wearable — quiet but beautiful modern luxury, with excellent outerwear. And finally, Zegna’s runway show, with its focus on cashmere and a collaboration with The Elder Statesman, was equally sumptuous and forward thinking. A future vision of tailored clothing and elegant sportswear, it stripped away more classic design elements for a study in shape and texture.

Best presentation concept: Gucci’s incorporation of a live musical act provided a great acoustic backdrop for their collection.

Trendspotting: It’s incredibly refreshing to see the strong return of tailoring on the runways. The execution felt most modern with a play on proportion: either a boxy jacket or a fuller pant makes the idea feel right for today. Clean-shouldered, long and languid topcoats are likewise a part of the equation. This shift is mirrored in footwear, with a shift from the predominance in sneakers to a dressier offer, often shown with a lug sole. Novelty evening- and formalwear were another key message, whether translated through velvet, shine or embellishment. Gender-fluid ideas in this message were also a common theme that looked quite strong — event dressing as a vehicle for self-expression is relatively new to the men’s scene, and it’s a welcome alternative to the uniform black tuxedo archetype.

Must have item: Prada’s suede coats are an absolute dream.

Dean Cook, head of menswear buying at Browns

Favorite collections: From the collection to the show setting, Prada captured the mood this season and once again, was one of my favorite shows of Milan.

Best presentation concept: Glamour and understated elegance oozed from Brunello Cucinelli.

Trendspotting: Tailoring stole the show this season and seemed to be everywhere, both on the runway as well as worn by those attending the shows.

Must-have item: Anything Prada, but especially the suit with the slightly oversized, squared shoulder and the long tailored coat.

General comment on the season: Overall, Milan was a great way to kick off men’s fashion month. There was a lot of excitement surrounding Marco de Vincenzo’s debut menswear collection for Etro, as well as the highly anticipated Gucci show. Also we can’t not shout out British brand Charles Jeffery Loverboy’s debut runway show, which was a great addition to the week.

Menswear buying team at Mytheresa

Favorite collections: Prada, Zegna, Gucci, Fendi and Giorgio Armani.

Best presentation concept: Prada, Zegna and Tod’s.

Trendspotting: For the upcoming season we have identified a strong presence of overcoats, chunky knit, color block and sophisticated modern tailoring.

Must-have item: Overcoats play an essential role in the next season wardrobe staples.

Buying process: Despite the post-pandemic digital wave, the physical showroom visits remain of paramount importance.

General comment on the season: Fall 2023 collections are all looking more elevated and luxury. Beautiful knit texture and gray long coats are the key highlights of this Milan Fashion Week.

Federica Montelli, head of fashion at Rinascente

Favorite collections: Prada, Dolce Gabbana, JW Anderson, Fendi, Giorgio Armani, MSGM. A strong first showing in the men’s department for Marco de Vincenzo at Etro, and beautiful collections from Magliano and Federico Cina, who confirmed their status as “hot” names.

Best presentation concept: Fendi’s giant flipper-disco ball was the most intriguing setup, accompanied by Moroder’s featured score: perhaps a little overpowering, but served as a good contrast to the beautifully crafted collection. I particularly appreciated Dolce & Gabbana’s dark and moody setting which complemented the sexy tailoring, as well as MSGM’s academic inspiration literally hosted inside Milan’s Politecnico University.

Trendspotting: Tailoring stole the show at most brands, ranging from elegant daywear to evening. Knitwear was one of the main themes, for example at Etro, with beautiful jacquards and mohair and alpaca sweaters. Jackets are either cropped or long and slim. In general, we continue to see a looser aesthetic, with roomy or flared pants and denims paired with deconstructed coats. Two brands went more decisively for slimmer cuts, Prada and JW Anderson. Touches of femininity and genderless were also seen, with the key look being the corset bustier at Dolce & Gabbana. Flashes of purple mixing grays and beige houndstooth were among the strongest colors, in a very generally dark (often all black) palette. On the other side of the spectrum, Y2K and academia was the theme at MSGM, while a mix of tech-goth-punk mood was present in brands like [1017 Alyx 9SM], JordanLuca, Charles Jeffrey Loverboy.

Must-have item: Prada provided, as usual, plenty of lust-worthy items: detachable contrast collars peeking through tailoring, the rounded puffer/bomber hybrid jackets, the new chunky apron shoes with zip. There was plenty of fun on the runway, with ironic pieces popping up, like Fendi’s quite literal shearling baguette bag or JW Anderson’s “Wellipets” frog shoes. JordanLuca’s collab with Londsdale has the right amount of Y2K nostalgia.

General comment on the season: For what we have seen so far in Milan and Florence, the season seems to be moving into two parallel conversations. One dedicated to the “smartorial” look, a simplicity for everyday with a touch of rigor. The other one is about subcultures, a celebration of the “underground” aesthetic, with a mix of punk and grunge of the early 2000s imbued with a 2020s tech touch. After a strong start with Milan’s fashion week we expect some new themes emerging in Paris next week.

Joseph Tang, fashion director at Holt Renfrew

Favorite collections: All eyes were on Gucci setting the tone of what we’d see in Milan. Designed by the in-house team, Gucci presented a beautiful palate cleanser for the brand with a sophisticated, retro edge to the collection. Prada exemplified a new vision of dynamic dressing through structured tailoring and a retro-futuristic color palette. Mrs. Prada and Raf Simons delivered a refreshing take on uniform dressing, elevating key outerwear silhouettes. Zegna presented a highly textural collection, expertly layered. Statement knitwear and relaxed tailoring exemplified the perfect pairing of proportions. A special mention goes to Marco De Vincenzo’s debut men’s collection for Etro, which was a romantic and ‘70s-influenced direction for the brand.

Best presentation concept: Brunello Cucinelli’s presentation at “Casa Cucinelli” offered a beautiful expression of the brand. K-Way’s recreation of Café de la Paix, the Parisian café where founder Léon-Claude Duhamel first thought of creating the brand, was a superb way to display the collection. 

Trendspotting: Voluminous silhouettes and relaxed tailoring aren’t going anywhere. Revisited takes on fluid and oversized silhouette in the forms of suiting and statement outerwear took precedence. With each season we continue to progress further into what fluidity in fashion looks like. From the kilts at Etro to the long skirts at Gucci, it’s exciting to see more daring styles on the menswear runways. Archetypal styles of menswear are also leaning feminine, with Fendi being a perfect example of this by showing one-shoulder knits alongside classic suiting looks. In terms of fabric, lots of wool plaids, checks and shearlings were seen on the runways. The ideas of textural fabrications and heritage fabrics such as corduroy and sustainable wool yarns are becoming increasingly prominent with brands like Eleventy, Giorgio Armani and Tod’s keeping it fresh and new.

Must-have item: The extra-long tailored coat will be a must-have for the fall season, seen at Fendi, Gucci and Dolce & Gabbana. Prada’s bomber jackets and leather totes are also top of the list. The chunky Wallabies from Prada and the knit sneakers from Tod’s were key footwear standouts. The cashmere tote bags at Fendi. And Zegna’s intarsia knit sweaters worn as outerwear.

Budgets: The collections in Milan showcased a strong product offering and our budgets reflect accordingly. 

Buying process: We’ve hit the ground running this year and it’s been amazing to fully be back in person for fall 2023. We continue to embrace new and innovative discoveries at both the shows and showrooms. 

General comment on the season: This week in Milan has been full of highly anticipated collections. From Gucci’s new direction to De Vincenzo’s debut at Etro, Milan did not disappoint. Many of the collections showcased new expressions of traditional Italian heritage with a clear focus on updated, timeless pieces with an emphasis on rich textiles and overstated silhouettes. We are seeing a return to the smart, sophisticated gentleman who embraces the art of dressing up. 

Riccardo Tortato, head of buying departments and men’s fashion director at Tsum, Moscow and DLT, St. Petersburg

Favorite collections: Zegna and Brunello Cucinelli.

Best presentation concept: Zegna and Brioni.

Trendspotting: Suit, soft blazer and coat. The “bel vestire” [to dress well, in English] is back and in this Italians brands are masters in that.

Must-have item: Formal shoes and cashmere coat.

Buying process: We buy in the showroom as always. I’m not even sure the digital buying is still available from all brands because this season all buyers were in Milan.

General comment on the season: I have noticed at least four designers having a really similar style of products on the catwalk and it is one of those moments in fashion when you can almost mix different brands in one solid style. There is a really visible trend that ran through the top brands: Streetwear is just a memory from the past and all designers are working to create a modern elegance and a new man code based on a blazer and coat, soft pants and new formal shoes. In a way, Alessandro Sartori has been the first to talk this new language of style since at least two years. On another side, we see Brunello Cucinelli, Kiton and Brioni that propose a really sophisticated new gentleman style. Classic items from a gentleman wardrobe are reinvented with softer fabrics, as well as bigger and more comfortable volume. A special mention to Mr. Giorgio Armani and his style that in this moment is more modern and on point than [the one of a] lot of new designers.