After two disrupted years, Pitti Uomo came back in full force for the summer season in the midst of Europe’s first seasonal heatwave. Florence served as the ideal backdrop for the spring 2023 collections, which offered an easy breezy take on tailoring with lightweight sartorial concoctions and a celebration of craft, as post-pandemic customers embrace local culture and artisanship. Earth tones and eco-minded gear are reinforcing a reconnection with nature while elegant shorts and summer hats offer a relief from rising summer temperatures.
Here are the leading trends from the fairgrounds.
Easy Breezy Tailoring
Brunello Cucinelli focused on modern tailoring that translated into a rich array of lightly constructed single- and double-breasted suits in such fabrics as linen and cotton.
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Earthy Tones
Chocolate brown, olive greens and a sea of khakis were the dominating color palette. Danish brand Hansen Garments mastered the color play in an assortment of perfectly crafted cargo pants, light trenches and fluid shirts.
Summer Hats
While straw fedoras were still prevalent, hand-knit cloche hats were the newcomers. Waste Yarn Project interpreted them in a fully sustainable manner using deadstock yarns in playful designs, nodding to crafty DIY.
Dressy Shorts
How to stay cool in style? Dressy shorts are the answer. Employing the same construction techniques and heritage menswear fabrics as tailored pants, these Caruso Bermuda-length bottoms are as versatile and elegant as their long-length relatives.
Striped Shirts
Shirts returned as a dressier option and were ubiquitous at the fair after seasons when comfort and casual alternatives dominated. The 1950s retro style by Neapolitan master Errico Formicola encapsulated the comeback of the shirt, combining it with Cabana stripes to emerge as the leading summery pattern.
Artisanal Techniques
As upcycling trickles down here and there, nodding to more responsible manufacturing, artisanal techniques came in handy to highlight local handicraft, as seen in this captivating patchwork jacket and pant by Indian label Kardo.
Chic Workwear
Cargo pockets, utility references and an overall celebration of workwear served as the perfect alternative to traditional suits as evidenced by Swedish brand C.O.F. Studio, which used thick Japanese cottons on revived retro French workwear uniforms.
Photographs by Daniele Mango/WWD
Styled by: Alex Badia
Model: Elihadji Mar at Elite Milano
Hair and makeup by Matilde Caprilli at Rock and Rose Agency