Brioni
At Brioni, Norbert Stumpfl has made lightness his mantra and for spring 2026 this was no exception. Softness was equally key and Brioni artisans at Milan’s 16th-century Renaissance-style Palazzo Stampa di Soncino were seen at work applying their skill to the double-faced splittable construction employed on shirt jackets, parkas and trenchcoats. This season volumes remained generous, but cut a little closer to the body, as in the new and modern double-breasted jackets in summer cashmere and silk. Seersucker suits; weightless nabuk jackets; drawstring pants with an elasticized back and two pleats in the front contributed to the ease of the lineup. Stumpfl once again aimed for the super sophisticated designs Brioni customers are looking for, seen for example in an evening jacket treated and hand-stitched in such a way that it resulted in a texture that resembled Astrakhan fur. Another jacket was embroidered with 24-karat gold leaf representing a bird’s-eye view of the Brioni factory in Penne.
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Canali
“The collection pays tribute to our artisans but also those that build vintage automobiles,” said chief executive officer Stefano Canali, standing by a 1961 Porsche parked near the stage where models posed wearing deconstructed suits. In fact, the collection was inspired by the world of Gran Turismo car racing, and exuded ease, practicality and comfort. Cue the fluid jacket in a 150 superfine wool and cashmere blend. The references to racing were there — although not literal — such as the patterns of the interiors of cars, the piping and the stitches. A beautiful cotton crochet sweater was inspired by retro driving gloves. There was an evolution of the broken suit, with softer shoulders. On a jacket, the handwoven suede pattern of Canali’s Freccia motif reflected the artisanal craftsmanship of the brand.
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Corneliani
The different facets of the Corneliani man were reflected by the three eclectic composers performing at the brand’s stately Milan headquarters by a giant disc above a mirrored stage, encircled by a sand-dusted runway — California rocker Devendra Banhart; Keziah Jones, the Nigerian-born guitarist- percussionist and creator of blufunk, and French DJ and producer Mattias Mimoun.
The collection of fluid, tailored double-breasted jackets, collarless and lapel-free over straight trousers included feather-light compact cotton trenches and field jackets in soft leather. Polo and blouson shirts were paired with textured knits and shorts. All looked comfortable and practical yet chic. Ever attentive to the fabrics, Corneliani worked with wool-silk and mohair blends; nubuck; napa; crepe linen; Sea Island cotton, and thermo-bonded double cottons.
Kiton
“As everything around us is in constant acceleration, we invite you to slow down as a form of luxury, with the ability to set your own pace,” said CEO Antonio De Matteis. For the presentation at its headquarters in Milan, the brand staged the clothes on figures seen at different moments of the day, such as a coffee with a friend or a visit to an art exhibition.
Aligned with the trend in Milan, jackets were longer and pants wider, for a more relaxed silhouette in a color palette that ranged from apricot to green, in addition to earth hues. Kiton continues to invest in the pursuit of exclusive fabrics, once again lightweight and often with patterns — checks in particular. Knits were presented in Sea Island cotton, and outerwear was in feather-light cashmere. The collection was noticeably expanded, which will offer the brand’s luxury customers plenty to choose from to wear through their daily activities.
Pal Zileri
Pal Zileri’s team was inspired by the “One Thousand and One Nights” Middle Eastern folktales, hence the tailored safari jackets in a palette inspired by desert colors, from sand to ocher, with touches of sun-yellow and sky-blue. Bamboo fibers, linen and silk contributed to light suits fit for the summer heat, as did the knits in cotton and linen. Geometric patterns were inspired by Middle Eastern decorations. CEO Leo Scordo said the brand turned to AI for “suggestions for the traveling gentleman,” which led to two looks in natural fabrics that included, for example, zippered pants that could be turned into shorts, and a practical multipocket nylon vest.
Lardini
The Lardini tailoring proposition has been skewing younger for the past few seasons. For spring, a dusty and washed color palette of baby blue, chalk and sage decked breezy linens for three-piece, tonal suits layering a collarless shirt, loose waistcoat and deconstructed jacket.
The color-matching of shirt and blazer or shirt and pants resulted in a modern interpretation of suiting, for example in the silk shirts and front-pleated pants in beige worn under a brown tactile cardigan in lieu of the traditional blazer or in the new wide-lapeled tuxedo blazer worn with same-color shirt and black pants. “The market needs reassurance, it’s not prone to excesses. It’s all about a lean and quiet product offering,” said creative director Luigi Lardini.
Cesare Attolini
With a new showroom space, located in a tony early-20th-century apartment in central Milan, Cesare Attolini reimagined its Neapolitan sartorial tradition with ease in mind, and a few more fashion-driven options. Cue the lightweight duster coast, intentionally unlined and fitting like a glove to substitute for blazers or the handcrafted mid-thigh trench coat lean on the body and soft suede shirt jackets.
The suiting offering came with distinctive wide-lapeled blazers in captivating shades, such as rusty red and forest green on linen and navy blue on matte shantung, the latter fitted on the waist and structured on the shoulder. As the recently opened first store in London is proving, the tailoring brand’s clients are looking for a full Attolini wardrobe, hence the travel tracksuits and wool jersey, pajama-inspired leisure sets.
Boglioli
Known for its garment-dyed sartorialwear, Boglioli took over the Atelier Crespi Brera, an art studio owned by the namesake color and paint shop, to unveil its spring collection filled with deconstructed blazers in painterly nuances, from rusty orange and tobacco to lime green and indigo blue.
The ultralight garment, weighing only 240 grams and crafted from a wool and silk blend, mingled with more formal iterations inspired by the Neapolitan sartorial tradition such as the double-breasted, wide-lapeled suit in linen and mohair. Expanding its total look offering, summery outerwear including windowpane car coats were layered over denim ensembles while suede overshirts over linen shirt jackets were paired with loose pants in light twill.
Rubinacci
When even a heritage Neapolitan tailoring atelier ditches the classic blazer, it’s proof that traditional men’s elegance can embrace many different routes. Rubinacci had some handsome Saharan jackets for spring — in beige herringbone linen, silk and wool blends or in solid green hopsack wool — inspired by styles worn by the British navy and here matched with straight-leg pants with a reversed front-pleat.
For the more conservative customer there was the wide-lapeled, double-breasted blazer in Irish linen mingled with seersucker options, offered in solid blue, burgundy and green but also in more playful multicolor striped iterations.