Artificial intelligence might be all the rage in the tech world, but it’s still seeing a slow trickle into the fashion and footwear spaces. Thus far, the technology has been used mostly for conceptual designs and 3D-printed molds, although it could soon be having a wider presence on real-life sneakers if one of Nike’s newest releases is any indication.
First surfacing in June, Nike’s new women’s-exclusive Astra Ultra sneaker is beginning to arrive at retail and from the brand’s own Snkrs e-commerce platform. With its slimmed-down sole and wavy, linear low-top design, the Altra Ultra checks off several trend boxes, but its official product description reveals an additional unexpected detail.
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According to Nike, the Astra Ultra “explores shape and style by utilizing 3-D, generative AI.” In other words, at least some of the soccer-inspired model’s “rippling design lines,” “futuristic outsole” and complex heel pattern weren’t sketched out by a human hand, but instead produced by AI.
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While it’s possible that Nike has used generative AI on past models, the Astra Ultra is significant for being one of the first times the brand has disclosed use of the technology on a publicly released sneaker.
In 2024, Nike used the Paris Olympics as a showcase for a batch of conceptual generative AI prototype sneakers including shoes designed for A’ja Wilson, Victor Wembanyama and Sha’Carri Richardson. Given that Wilson’s debut A’One signature model looks vastly different from the prototype, those A.I.R. (Athlete Imagined Revolution) concepts are unlikely to inform real designs any time soon, but it’s clear Nike isn’t shying away from the use of AI in its footwear.
Ahead of the Olympic event, Nike vice president of apparel innovation Janett Nichol told WWD that despite the use of AI, humans are still a necessity for the brand’s design process.
“You absolutely need a human at the center of all of this, we are dealing with athletes who are human, and it’s humans that can unlock what athletes need. There’s also a massive amount of emotion that goes into the work that we do,” Nichol said.
Priced at $115, the Nike Astra Ultra’s Burgundy Crush/Metallic Silver colorway is available now on Snkrs, where select sizes are already selling out. The pair has a style code of FZ5778-600.