MILAN — Textile mills at Milano Unica, which ended its three-day run on Thursday, said demand from environmentally conscious luxury consumers has driven up the price of linen even as cotton struggles with an oversupply issue.
Now under the Loro Piana umbrella, Solbiati’s “Linen breeze” line of apparel materials that are blended with aloe vera and destined for shirts, jackets and suits, were under the spotlight at its stand. The Corona, Italy-based company acquired the historic linen mill Solbiati in 2013 to enhance its linen offerings and take advantage of the material’s potential.
“Solbiati’s pure linen interpretations, from sophisticated linear plain weaves to its rare and refined textures and mouliné yarns, are created for more feminine fabrics with a focus on stretch and wearability,” said Loro Piana chief executive officer Matthieu Brisset.
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“The production techniques used have been perfected over centuries and are guided by nature and have an undiminished respect for the environment,” Brisset added.
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Known for its natural luxury fabrics, Larusmiani’s resort collection also included a wide selection of yarn-dyed and piece-dyed linens made under the Bellora/Larusmiani label. Larusmiani has a license for the global distribution and production of Bellora fabrics.
“Linen is becoming more and more important and we have seen an increase of interest as we have been a specialist [in] this fiber,” said Larusmiani ceo and president Guglielmo Miani, who noted that prices of linen are constantly changing and raw material prices increased about 10 percent last year.
“Obviously, Larusmiani guarantees a fixed price for its clients and so it is not really impacting them right now for this season,” Miani added.
The quality of European linen was highlighted by shirting fabrics maker Albini Group and through its brands Cotonificio Albini, Albini Donna, Thomas Mason, David & John Anderson and Albiate 1830.
Linen, Albini said, is being asserted more as European fiber that is environmentally sound and self-sustainable, as its cellulosic nature requires only rainwater.
Albini Group ceo Silvio Albini said, “We believe a lot in linen and we are really focused on innovation and raw materials.”
Executives said it’s difficult to forecast linen prices, since it is heavily dependent on the weather.
“The new season’s prices cannot be estimated as they will be greatly influenced by the atmospheric conditions — the variations between the sun and rain — which will determine the fiber’s ultimate quality and worth,” Brisset said.
The emphasis on linen comes amid a challenging year for the U.S. cotton industry.
“Low cotton prices, ample global stocks and uncertainties regarding global mill cotton use are in focus, as China is importing less raw cotton fiber, leading to a reduction in world trade,” said the U.S. National Cotton Council in a report this month.
A spending slowdown in major markets like China caused revenues of the Italian textile industry to drop 2.3 percent to 7.8 billion euros, or $8.75 billion, in 2015.
Italian exports across the globe fell: textile exports to its top trading partner China slipped 2 percent and shipments to Turkey slumped 6.7 percent, followed by the Czech Republic and Germany, with exports falling 12.3 percent and 16.5 percent, respectively.
Still, the market’s renewed appetite for wool as a sportswear material is a main driver for the nation’s wool mills, which made up 39.2 percent of Italian fashion and textile production chain in 2015. Linen production, Sistema Moda Italia said, may also help drive the industry into 2016.
“The wool division is expected to grow in 2016, together with the linen division,” SMI said.
Another catalyst for the sector is the U.S. market, explained Milano Unica’s newly appointed president, Ercole Botto Poala, who said his company Reda 1865 saw its sales there increase 20 percent in 2015 versus 2014.
“The U.S. continues to generate positive signals for the sector in 2016,” said Botto Poala.
Milano Unica has recently positioned itself to capitalize on the U.S. and the Chinese markets, with new spinoff fairs in Shanghai and New York. Brands have reported a noted rise in U.S. sales since the opening of the New York fair in July.
The euro’s decline against the greenback is expected to offset the negative effects emanating from China. Last month, Goldman Sachs & Co. revised its 12-month forecast for the euro to 95 cents, after calling for euro-dollar parity in December. The euro is currently trading at $1.13.
Under the direction of Milano Unica’s new art director, Stefano Fadda, the fair’s main trends were highlighted by an installation at the heart of the fair. Abyss, a theme rooted in consistency and magical colors; Nature and Artifice, a mosaic of real and artificial geometric landscapes; Africa Punk, which points to primitive and natural urban fabric and Psycho Bit, which explores the psychedelic and arithmetic, were paramount.
Sustainable and technical fabrics were in focus at stands such as Gruppo Cinque, which presented a collection that incorporated fashions made with NewLife, a Made in Italy yarn obtained by converting recycled plastic bottles.
NewLife is a partner of CLASS, an international platform that supports and promotes sustainable products.
Gruppo Cinque ceo Lorella Paulotto said out of 250 products in its spring-summer catalogue, 100 were made with NewLife.
“For 2016, we definitely see growth,” he added. “Our young designers are really helping me change the image of the group.”