MILAN — Tactile and three dimensional fabrics are here to stay.
As textile firms debut their fall 2023 collections throughout the summer at specialty fairs trying to anticipate trends and needs that fashion brands will adopt in one year’s time — particularly, more sustainable options — the crafty and artisanal touch and feel that dominated recent fashion offerings seems to be more than just a volatile trend.
Here, WWD compiled a list of textiles expected to appear in the fall 2023 runway collections.
Botto Giuseppe’s Slowool Earth, a RWS, traceable woolen textile available in cloth, twill and flannel versions suitable for outerwear and treated with Cradle-to-Cradle certified finishings.
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Lanificio di Tollegno’s Super Stretch, a woolen and elastane fabric intended for suits, with wrinkle-free and super stretch qualities, up to 25 percent of elasticity, treated according to ZDHC protocols and compliant with the Manufacturing Restricted Substances List.
Reda’s Attitude, a thick, 100 percent merino wool fabric inspired by Reda’s archival textiles from the 1970s, weighing roughly 13 ounces and bearing a Prince of Wales pattern intended for suiting.
Lineapiù’s Naif, a blend of superfine mohair, certified according to the Responsible Mohair Standard, and merino wools mixed with polyamide, boasting a gauze-like effect suitable for knitwear pieces, including jackets, cardigans, suits and scarves.
Eurojersey’s registered Sensitive Fabrics intended for stretch shirts, suits and pants boasting wrinkle-free, pill-free and iron-free qualities, as well as enhanced breathability features, developed in compliance with PEF indicators, as well as Oeko-Tex and ZDHC principles.
Albini 1876’s 4Flex cotton and elastane fabric is a four-way stretch textile, breathable and wrinkle-free. It is made from traceable Supima cotton and intended for shirts, T-shirts and outerwear.
Redaelli Velluti’s Angelica made of FSC-approved viscose and GRS polyester is a dévoré velvet with a shimmering surface intended for gowns and lightweight overcoats.
Lanificio Fratelli Cerruti’s Flow range’s latest iteration is a 90 percent wool and 10 percent cashmere blend done in a macro-checkered pattern and weaved according to the raising technique providing a fluffy aspect particularly suitable for coats.
Tessuti di Sondrio’s Herbarium 10 is a GOTs certified two-ply cotton fabric dyed using plant- and bio-based pigments resulting in deep hues suitable for suits and outerwear.
Piacenza 1733’s First Class — Albatross, a 100 percent open-weave merino wool fabric intended for lightweight and wrinkle-free suits and also boasting waterproof qualities thanks to nanotechnologies.
Vitale Barberis Canonico’s carded flannel from the H.O.P.E. line is a GRS-certified woolen flannel containing 50 percent upcycled fibers from the mill’s own deadstock and available in a range of solids and melange options intended for suits and blazers.
Maglificio Maggia’s jersey fabric resembles Shetland wool and is made of an even blend of cashmere and camel hair paired with cotton yarns in saturated nuances intended to offer extra brightness to jackets.
Manteco’s Pure, a registered fabric made of Mwool, a regenerated, GRS-certified wool trademarked by the mill and crafted from mechanical and low-impact pre- and post-consumer recycled wool colored without using additional dyes as per Recype, the mill’s coloring process obtained by combining differently toned yarns. It is wrinkle-free, breathable and intended for outerwear.
Brunello’s trademarked BemBAZIN is a damask bazin crafted from Asahi Kasei’s Bemberg fibers sourced from pre-consumer materials, including cotton linters, and intended for occasionwear.
Iluna Group’s Green Label laces crafted from Amni Soul Eco 6.6 polyamide yarns and the ROICA V550 degradable stretch yarns. Intended for eco-minded underwear, hosiery and fashion pieces, they are dyed according to Oeko-Tex and GOTS principles.
Monticolor’s So Light, a blend of 65 percent long-fiber organic cotton certified by the Organic Content Standard and 35 percent polyamide. It is offered as a knitwear-intended yarn for voluminous sweaters and outwear.
Canepa’s Biodegradable Nylon is a fabric that naturally biodegrades in the soil within five years. It is suitable for different finishings and textures, and apt for suits, outerwear and beachwear.