Vince, 10 Crosby Derek Lam Spring 2025 and More Contemporary Brands at NYFW

Vince chief creative officer Caroline Belhumeur looked to the utility of gardening with a dash of ’60s Italian beach chic as her jumping off point for spring 2025.

The look: Minimal modern wardrobing with utility and sporty elements and special design touches. Belhumeur’s muse is a “cool woman.”

Quote of note: “Looking at some of our looks here, we love continuing with suede, with little rivets and a stitch through pocket — a nod to utility,” she said, highlighting her simple yet effective design updates.

Standout pieces: Italian pre-washed denim, sweater sets, supple leathers, plaid separates, satin slipdresses, oversize yet sharp outerwear, and new scarves and belts to round out the assortments.

Takeaway: Belhumeur’s Vince stands out without shouting with an easy modern polish.

After 10 seasons designing exclusively digitally, designer Maisie Wilen stepped away to work with her hands.

The look: Texture (a big spring trend) achieved through unique materials. She created a collection with a vintage feel but modern edge full of her signature perforated knits and more.

Quote of note: “I think I literally just got fatigued of sitting in front of a computer. So, I really turned my process on its head. I started by sourcing materials, going to deadstock suppliers around L.A. and just finding things. I just figured out what it would be from there.”

Standout pieces: Perforated knits now in new asymmetrical shapes, cycling jerseys (designed in collaboration with Human Powered Health’s Tour de France Femmes cycling team), a skirt with colorful glass beads.

Takeaway: Wilen has had her finger on the pulse of Gen Z dressing through technology, but adding new fabrications and updating her process shows she is maturing while maintaining her cool-girl edge.

A collaboration with painter Jill Moser was the starting point for 10 Crosby Derek Lam.

The look: Colorful, modern sportswear with an arty edge grounded in reality and wearability. “We came into the partnership not knowing exactly how we wanted to execute the collaboration,” Yana Popov, 10 Crosby Derek Lam’s design director, said of the open-ended creativity of working with Moser.

Quote of note: “She explores the female form through curved lines and color. The way that we use that in our silhouettes is exaggerating the female form through cinch waist peplum shapes with hourglassy moments, A-line skirts and puff sleeves,” Popov explained.

Standout pieces: Mixed-media dresses and cotton skirts in compact knit with hardware details; peplum jackets; soft wash denim; sailor pants with crest buttons. 

Takeaway: Classic pieces need updates, too. “It’s always with a twist; that was core to what Derek did,” Popov said of evolving the brand now that she has taken over from the founder. She is keeping the DNA while pushing the brand forward.

The look: The spring collection was rooted in the brand’s house codes of putting quirky and unexpected twists on classic knitwear. The range had a utilitarian vibe seen through knitwear reimagined as cargo jackets and denim styles, balanced with feminine silhouettes like the brand’s bestselling wavy dress updated in new colorways and floral details. 

Quote of note: “This year, 50 percent of the population will be voting and it’s so important in this decade that we take care of the environment,” said designer Zoe Champion. “This is our chance to make a difference, so that really led me to what are the different ways that people can make a difference? One is voting. There’s the high level of protesting on the streets and then there’s the very quiet, soft and important level of craft — sewing circles and having conversations. I really wanted to play with these different emotions.” 

Standout pieces: Climate change was spotlighted through eye-catching looks like a knitted dress depicting the image of a receding lake and knitted tops and dresses created in a sunset gradient colorway. 

Takeaway: PH5’s spring collection was kitschy, but wearable with styles highlighting the designers’ expertise in manipulating knitwear. 

The look: Airy feminine styles with an emphasis on details, construction and a ‘60s Mod vibe.

Quote of note: “This season, I’m especially excited about our overall focus on wardrobing and providing outfit solutions,” said designer Jane Siskin. “We are thrilled to be presenting our second footwear collection, which features the same vibrant palette and textures as the collection. This is an exciting moment for Cinq à Sept. Now in our eighth year, we continue to serve a multigenerational community with an offering that is designed with our consumer in mind. We want to make getting dressed for every moment fun. We celebrate every moment as an occasion, so why not dress for it?” 

Standout pieces: The brand’s embroidery continued to shine through feminine styles like a floral appliqué evening dress, studded leather sets and ruffle-detailed dresses. 

The takeaway: Siskin showed her strength in modernizing past decades’ fashion trends with modern-day cuts and eye-catching details. 

The look: Inspired by her 23-year-old daughter Jillian, Trish Wescoat Pound’s TWP collection features plenty of casual and effortless clothing for the chic, cool girl. The collection juxtaposes masculine and feminine, romance and structure. There are slouchy and comfortable pants and jackets, great oversized sexy shirts, and skirts and dresses that everyone will want to wear. Plus, there are some great options for evening as well, such as the Lola chocolate dress.

Quote of note: “I think it was just about the ability to be vulnerable, and taking in the beauty of that and the strength of vulnerability. Making beautiful clothes that women hopefully want to wear,” said Trish Wescoat Pound, creative director.

Standout pieces: The knit big boy tee in ivory, Tabitha blazer in natural and Demie pant in natural; the deep-v dress in ivory with Morgan’s trench, and the nubby sweatpant, hoodie and car coat.

The takeaway: TWP is building a great following with retailers such as Saks Fifth Avenue, Nordstrom, Elyse Walker, and Moda Operandi for its easy, effortless, chic clothing with a downtown twist.

The look: Inspired by fashion director Tara Rudes Dann’s childhood memories of visiting The Plaza, her homecoming collection evokes the New York landmark’s luxe palette, with a focus on old-world prints, gilded details and rich hues.

Quote of note: “We want to create this entire world for her,” Dann said of L’Agence’s expansion into accessories and swimwear. “It’s about dressing her for every occasion from the minute she wakes up to the minute she falls asleep and taking her to a level that she can excel in.”

Standout pieces: Chinoiserie prints in velvet, satin and sequin embroidery; cropped collarless snakeskin and tapestry jackets; statement belts; trendy barrel- and wide-leg denim.

Takeaway: The right amount of loudness — especially in the form of bold pinks, teals and reds — looks good on luxury.

Designer Andrea Lieberman says spring 2025 ushers in a new era of dimension and authenticity for A.L.C.

The look: California ease with New York polish, clothes to round out your wardrobe.

Quote of note: “We’re launching a new denim program in spring 2025. An ode to American craftsmanship and authenticity, the selection is inspired by classic heritage denim cuts and is hand-finished in L.A.” Lieberman said, adding that her woman styles “so much of our collection back to jeans that this is an obvious progression for us.”

Standout pieces: Takes on cocktail dressing — from svelte tuxedos to sculptural midi-dresses (her bestsellers) superlight knits in a range of colors, buttery soft leather separates.

Takeaway: Like the woman she dresses, 15 years in Andrea Lieberman continues to evolve her brand to meet her where she is at.

Tiki torches, raffia and palm prints from the ’70s were top of mind for creative director Chelsea Hansford’s spring collection.

The look: Retro Acapulco, with modern edge.

Quote of note: “It’s very much a feeling of old Palm Beach mystique. Imagine someone in an amazing printed set doing the limbo with a drink with a pineapple.“

Standout pieces: Mega platforms, raffia bags, striped poplin “Loch” top, matching sets in jungle leaf print, gingham sleeveless dress, fringe hem on dresses.

Takeaway: Retro kitsch is Simon Miller’s bread and butter, but Hansford does it in a tongue-and-cheek way that feels contemporary and not dated.

The look: Easy feminine silhouettes that exude a put-together vibe thanks to bold and romantic prints and flattering styles. 

Quote of note: “It all starts with the prints,” said designer Julia Brown. “We develop all of our prints in-house and we work from vintage. We probably work with five different artists for our prints every season. Obviously, we love florals, but we’ve been hitting our stride with the dot that we create each season.” 

Standout pieces: Youthful denim sets that leverage the brand’s signature floral motifs, flirty drop-waist floral-print dresses, Art Deco printed loungewear with several pieces in a watercolor-style polka-dot print. 

The takeaway: The five-year-old brand delivered a spring collection that showed its strength in marrying fun prints with effortless feminine silhouettes, and how it can continue applying this vision to new categories and fabrications.

The look: Casual separates in Tanya Taylor’s signature feminine spirit with an emphasis on construction, light fabrics and happy colors. 

Quote of note: “If I was a dream version of myself, I would be painting paintings, I would skateboard to the art store getting supplies, and that to me is how I’d define happiness,” Taylor said. “Putting the collection in this bubble of making it feel like personal happiness was a fun thing to play with.”

Standout pieces: Taylor’s hand-painted floral pieces offer a balance of romantic and sporty, with styles like a pleated poplin skirt and high-neck shirt creating an effortless cool look. An emphasis was also put on construction with reworked dress shirts, A-line dresses with exaggerated stitching and beaded dresses.  

The takeaway: Taylor’s spring collection showcased her range of skills in hand-painting and construction and balanced an effortless sporty quality with more feminine styles. 

Brand/designer: Kobi Halperin rang in the spring 2025 season with an interactive experience as guests were welcomed to wear headphones and bask in the sounds of the ocean’s waves as he unveiled his vision of “Hope.”

The look: A fresh approach to casual style.  

Quote of note: “After presenting my fall collection, I was deeply moved by the positive reactions to its message of hope,” Halperin said. “I felt inspired to further explore themes of togetherness and serenity and continue the journey of creating pieces that resonate with a sense of belonging and tranquility, connecting us all as ‘children of the sea.'”

Standout pieces Textured tweeds, dipped dye pieces, feminine embellished tops and dresses and fun feathered hats. Halperin also introduced denim this season.

The takeaway: Halperin was on trend for the week in encouraging optimism, and did so with a lot of heart.  

The look: Shades of black and white metamorphosed into sunset hues with all of the trademark elements of PatBo’s handicraft expertise.

Quote of note: “In my mind, it’s about evolution and transformation. It’s about my own evolution, too, as a designer and with the brand, said creative director Patricia Bonaldi of choosing the butterfly as a collection motif.

Standout pieces: Hand-beaded butterfly tops; cotton candy pink ruffled dresses; sheer low-rise flares; glamorous gowns featuring sequins, crystals and fringe; mini and midi-skirts with bubble hemlines.

Takeaway: Florals for spring may not be groundbreaking, but butterflies add a punch to the designer’s seasonal prints.

The look: Cynthia Rowley’s signature sporty-meets-girly aesthetic melded bold patterns with textured details and relaxed silhouettes.

Standout pieces: Embroidered jeans; black dresses with mirrored gold appliqués; bleach-splattered denim coordinates with turquoise embellishments; beaded floral cardigans and matching micro shorts; a blue suede shift dress; an iridescent one-piece.

Quote of note: “The whole idea came from when I was walking down my long, skinny driveway in Montauk to get in the car,” Rowley said of the concept for her show, which featured dramatic spotlights creating moody lighting. “The headlights were on me, and I was like, ‘Oh, this is like a runway, and look how good my clothes look in these headlights.’”

Takeaway: Rowley tuned up typical spring garb with tactile touches and refreshing takes on geometric, floral and animal prints.

The look: Creative director Rio Uribe’s travels to Bolivia and India — blended with his penchant for urban aesthetics — translated into vibrant fabrics, streetwear-friendly silhouettes and preppy-meets-athletic styles.

Quote of note: “The name change started with people in our community that were coming forward saying, ‘I love your work and I love the message, but the title could be seen as pejorative or offensive to some,'” Uribe said of his label, formerly named Gypsy Sport. “We as a brand are very inclusive and love to support all people, especially minorities or oppressed communities, so it automatically felt like the right thing to do. Now that it’s a namesake label, I feel a lot more responsibility to be proud and secure with what we put out, but it’s still going to have the same fun, inclusive and community-oriented messaging.”

Standout pieces: Colorful patchwork coordinates; jerseys with crochet appliqués; eyelet-trimmed blouses; iridescent taffeta skirts and sets; pleated twill midi skirts; seatbelt belts; logo print handbags à la Dior’s Oblique motifs.

The takeaway: Rio breathes new life into prep, sportif and streetwear.

The look: Retrofête puts a youthful, festival-friendly spin on vintage-inspired color palettes, fabrics and patterns.

Quote of note: “We start with the late ’60s and then go into the ’70s, so starting with boho, with the hippie and then the women’s movement, how women would transition from work to the disco,” said creative director Ohad Seroya of his collection’s inspiration.

Standout pieces: Mirrorball dresses; paisley prints with a metallic sheen; suede skirts and dresses with netted insets; pastel sequined shifts featuring floral appliqués; flared denim with patchwork details and wavy pockets.

Takeaway: Seroya gives the party crowd a sartorial history lesson with his flashy, fun approach to evening and clubwear.

With the brand’s 25th anniversary approaching next year, designer Daisuke Obana revisited for spring familiar key elements to further the brand DNA.

The look: Informed by the postmodern movement, which gained traction in the ’80s, Obana’s travels to Switzerland led way to his spring offering, inspired by the geometric, minimalistic designs of architect Mario Botta and his mastery of light and gravity. 

Quote of note: “This season, as a result of focusing on eliminating various elements, we arrived at a new minimal form rather than focusing on details. Additionally, after revisiting postmodern architecture for the first time in a while and preserving the best aspects while stripping away everything to the extreme, I believe this naturally led to the kind of collection we have this season,” said designer Daisuke Obana.

Standout pieces: Sharply tailored and minimal outerwear such as trenches and overshirts, an allover graphic marble print coat with matching pants, as well as several minimalistic jackets, wraps and robe coats, sans lapels.

Takeaway: Obana continues his exploration of workwear and vintage infused looks while successfully incorporating his own spin on classic menswear staples.

One of the few fashion brands to celebrate the queer perspective, designer Neil Grotzinger continues to challenge social norms that define gender.

The look: “Post humanoid figures but within the realm of the mundane,” Grotzinger said. A lineup rooted in the spirit of the club scene combined with dualistic dressing from traditional wardrobe staples that can translate from night to day, with a techno genre spin.

Quote of note: “It’s kind of interesting to me that these spaces are so coated with such oppositional information. And so that just became the whole thread throughout the collection — what if it was a little bit corporate but also overall a bit cunty at the same time,” Grotzinger added.

Standout pieces: Polka-dot skirts that mimic club dance floor neon lighting, upcycled dress shirts cut and reworked with exaggerated creases, dresses plastered with photographs taken by Grotzinger that portray multicolored flowers, moving traffic lights from the vantage point of a car and depictions of the designer nightlife outings.

Takeaway: Grotzinger’s experimental approach to his opulent genderless collections continues to celebrate queer life, sexuality and the unique relationship between queer life and the nightlife scene.

The look: Yigal Azrouël melds the best of masculine and feminine to create sporty, utilitarian silhouettes with an upscale twist.

Quote of note: “It’s not a fantasy — the collection is about looking stylish and cool without trying very hard. You can wear these clothes every day and mix things in a very effortless way,” said Azrouël.

Standout pieces: A cotton twill barn jacket and matching utility khakis; dark wash denim separates; an oversize cashmere jersey; a convertible leather dress; a button-up leather miniskirt.

Takeaway: The designer proved workwear and athleisure don’t have to be sloppy.

The look: Inspired by the island of Patmos, Greece — and one of its well-known inhabitants, American poet Robert Lax — designer Rachelle Hruska MacPherson used new mediums like linen and breezy cotton to display Lingua Franca’s signature embroidered text.

Quote of note: “Patmos won my heart,” said MacPherson. “I knew I always wanted to do something with it, and spring was the perfect opportunity. It’s obviously very hot there, so this collection is the most wovens we’ve ever done, by far.”

Standout pieces: Greek cuisine-inspired prints on satin; separates emblazoned with hand-embroidered text; funky off-the-shoulder cable knits; crocheted sweaters and dresses with three-dimensional appliqués.

The takeaway: MacPherson expanded her horizons beyond Lingua Franca’s typical offerings while embodying the brand’s kitschy DNA.

The look: Rag & Bone spring 2025 seamlessly blended several categories — nautical-inspired garb, wardrobe staples and varied styles of the brand’s signature denim — allowing for both customization and cohesion.

Quote of note: “Each season, we always explore different interpretations of what it means to be a New Yorker,” said Jennie McCormick, chief merchandising and design officer. “We started thinking about this idea of the individual within the collective, and what place champions the individual while creating a collective spirit more than New York?”

Standout pieces: An embroidered leather bomber; tweed-inspired denim separates; a cropped khaki canvas jacket; fitted ponte vests and blazers; trompe l’oeil denim prints on pants, tops and outerwear.

The takeaway: Rag & Bone built the ideal capsule wardrobe for spring by putting trendy twists on classic pieces.