CREATIVE DIRECTOR’S CUT: Forget curating a guest list and working on seating plans.
For his spring 2026 collection Luis de Javier is intent on showing everything to everyone, with a 24-hour performance that will show him and his team working on the collection, shooting the season’s look book and a campaign.
Kicking off at 8:30 p.m. on Sept. 30 and concluding on Oct. 1 at 8:30 p.m., it will be visible to passersby walking past the storefront at 18 Rue de Turenne in Paris’ Marais neighborhood, through a livestream on the designer’s official channels and on truck-mounted screens that will zip around the French capital.
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Captured by a multicamera setup, it’ll be a fly-on-the-wall spectacle spanning the showroom but also close-up shots of the handwork being done on site, broadcast live and uncut. With 30-something looks, it’ll be a blink-and-you-miss-it pace to get his cast fitted and ready.
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The format is about marking a new step for the brand, de Javier told WWD. He set his studio in London and just finished filming his turn as jury member on “Maestros de la Costura Celebrity,” a fashion talent show produced by Spain’s national broadcast RTVE and Shine Iberia where he serves as a judge.
Add to that a whirlwind few years that saw him stage shows in London, New York, Los Angeles and Paris, and dress the likes of Beyoncé Knowles-Carter, Cardi B and Rosalía.
Spring 2025’s full-fledged runway and one-on-one appointments for the subsequent fall collection left him feeling at odds with either format.
The former had “people [thinking] Luis de Javier was this big fashion house that has ‘Abu Dhabi’ money,” he quipped. The latter allowed a closer look at intricate details but lacked the final adjustments — and the person bringing the clothes to life.
Giving this unfiltered view also serves as the designer’s hat tip to the many usually unseen hands that play a part in building a season.
“This is what it is, this is what it looks like, this is how it’s made, this is how many hours went in there,” de Javier said. “And this is what you can do with it and how you can feel with it.”