Scott Malkin, founder of Value Retail, and the Bicester Collection
Thirty years ago, at a time when designer outlets were out-of-town strip malls without much personality, Malkin dared to be different. He built Bicester Village in Oxfordshire, England, as a luxury off-price shopping mall with an accent on hospitality and experiences and, in doing so, has redefined outlet shopping. Bicester soon became the template for a network of high-end fashion outlets that now stretches from Europe to China. Now he’s moved onto Long Island, trying to prove his idea of upscale outlet retail will work in his home country as well as overseas.
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Glenn Martens, creative director, Diesel and Maison Margiela
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The affable Belgian designer rose to fashion fame thanks to his 11-year stint helming Y/Project, accruing a reputation for his experimental approach and earning a cult following for his twisted constructions. In 2020 he was named creative director of the OTB brand Diesel, which he revamped with irreverent yet approachable collections, inventive and democratic show formats and bold campaigns. So much so that earlier this year he was handed the reins of Maison Margiela, succeeding John Galliano. Martens already proved that the one-off haute couture collection he did for Gaultier in 2022 was just a prelude of his prowess, as he made his debut at Maison Margiela with a convincing Artisanal show in July.
Stella McCartney, designer
The British fashion designer and environmentalist has led the way when it comes to sustainability in fashion, making being green thumbed a sexy accolade. She has bought back the minority stake in her brand held by LVMH and has taken on the title of global ambassador on sustainability within the group. McCartney is pushing her label into a new phase, which includes expansion and a more rigorous sustainability goalpost. The brand has set a 2040 net-zero target that includes cutting emissions across its supply chain by 46.2 percent by 2030.
Doug McMillon, president and CEO, Walmart Inc.
The giant Walmart discount machine operated in a retail class of its own for years. But by the time McMillon took the top job in 2014, it was clear that Amazon was another behemoth building momentum. McMillon has met that challenge with a radical reworking of Walmart, which still has plenty of IRL stores, but now has a growing online marketplace and advertising business, a sharper focus on fashion and a much more digital approach that’s gaining traction and helping it grow even bigger.
Steven Meisel, photographer
One of the most influential fashion photographers of all time, Meisel’s glamorous, cinematic and highly stylized imagery combines elegance with narrative-driven concepts. He is best known for his long-standing collaborations with brands like Prada, Versace and Vogue Italia, where he helped define the supermodel era and created conceptual, often provocative campaigns that influenced fashion and culture. Meisel (who once worked at WWD) is widely credited for shaping the careers of numerous supermodels, including Naomi Campbell and Linda Evangelista.
Alessandro Michele, creative director, Valentino
A disruptive force, Michele masterminded Gucci’s legendary men’s fall 2015 show that shifted fashion aesthetics, shaped the industry for years to come and over the next seven years skyrocketed the brand’s business. Michele’s sudden departure from the brand in 2022 sent shockwaves and opened a season of speculation about his next gig, until last year he became Pierpaolo Piccioli’s successor at Valentino, where he continues to create his often polarizing designs.
Francesco Milleri, chairman and CEO of EssilorLuxottica
Milleri worked closely with Luxottica founder Leonardo Del Vecchio to close the deal on the merger of Essilor and Luxottica in 2018 and became its head four years later. As well as a slew of its own eyewear brands as well as designer licenses, EssilorLuxottica’s offer includes AI-powered innovative technologies, wearables, medical instruments and science-backed eye care solutions and it has been investing heavily in the med-tech segment. But Milleri also has made bold moves in fashion, in October 2024 buying cult streetwear label Supreme from VF Corp. for $1.5 billion.
Bob Mitchell, co-CEO, Mitchells Group of Stores
Since joining the family business in the early ’90s, Bob Mitchell, who serves as co-CEO with his brother Russell, has spearheaded the introduction of womenswear and jewelry and overseen nationwide expansion of the company. Since acquiring Richards in Greenwich, Conn., in 1995, the family has added Marshs on Long Island; Wilkes Bashford in San Francisco and Palo Alto, Calif.; Marios in Seattle and Portland, Ore., and, earlier this year, Stanley Korshak in Dallas, bringing its store count to 10 and volume to more than $250 million.
Pieter Mulier, creative director, Alaïa
An endearing, éminence grise within the orbit of Raf Simons for many years, Mulier almost upstaged his boss in the 2014 “Dior and I” documentary — then followed his fellow Belgian to New York when Simons took the helm of Calvin Klein. In 2021, Mulier assumed the creative helm of Alaïa and quickly heated the house to the boiling point, turning out some of the most original, inventive and dazzling clothes in Paris, some of the hottest shoes and bags of the last few years, and catapulting the revenues of the Richemont-owned house by an impressive multiple. He hews closely to the values of Azzedine Alaïa, operating discreetly and at arm’s length to the industry.
Sue Nabi, CEO, Coty Inc.
Call her CEO 2.0. Since taking the reins of Coty Inc. in 2020, Nabi, the only transgender CEO of a Fortune 500 company, has applied her brand-building skills to reviving Coty’s fortunes. As reports of a company breakup swirl and the stock price remains in the high-single digits, it’s still not clear whether she’s met the mandate. There is increasing speculation she will step down from Coty later this year — raising the question of what’s next for her.
Leena Nair, global CEO, Chanel
Nair assumed the top job at Chanel in 2021 after a 30-year career at consumer giant Unilever, where as head of human resources she pioneered diversity and inclusion strategies at a global level. She set in motion a succession plan at Chanel that has seen many veteran managers leave or retire from the privately owned company, and promoted more women into senior management roles. In recognition of her services to business, diversity and women’s empowerment, Nair was appointed a Commander of the Order of the British Empire this year.
Erik and Pete Nordstrom, co-CEOs, Nordstrom
The two brothers and their cousin, Jamie, the chief merchandising officer, along with Mexico’s El Puerto de Liverpool, took the department store retailer private last May, enabling them to take a longer-term view of the business and make necessary investments and changes away from the scrutiny of public markets. Can they grow Nordstrom even more against the likes of Saks Fifth Avenue, Bloomingdale’s and Neiman Marcus?
Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, founders, The Row
The sisters have parlayed their childhood acting fame into an impressive fashion résumé, culminating in The Row, their brand famed for its understated, minimalist and sophisticated aesthetic. The Row has earned industry acclaim, and backing from Chanel owners the Wertheimers as well as L’Oréal heiress Françoise Bettencourt Meyers, positioning them firmly among elite American designers. The brand has been slowly but steadily growing its own store fleet — even as the sisters remain determinedly behind the scenes.
Gwyneth Paltrow, founder and CEO, Goop
The undisputed queen of the wellness scene who’s given us everything from candles that smell like her — you know — to more conventional beauty and fashion offerings. After dabbling in a wide variety of products, Goop earlier this year cut staff and is focusing on beauty and fashion. But can she monetize and truly build a profitable business?
Bruno Pavlovsky, president of fashion, Chanel
In his role since 2004, Pavlovsky has worked with three creative directors: Karl Lagerfeld, Virginie Viard and now Matthieu Blazy. He has bolstered the iconic fashion house’s Métiers d’Art division through the strategic acquisition of specialty workshops, and cemented Paris’ leadership as a global fashion hub by sponsoring the renovation of the Grand Palais and financing a new exhibition space at the Palais Galliera fashion museum. Pavlovsky has been president of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, French fashion’s governing body, since 2022. But Chanel’s growth has slowed recently, and he’s clearly hoping Blazy can reignite it.
Marta Ortega Pérez, chair of Zara parent Inditex
Ortega Pérez is helping to transform the family clothing business, one of the largest in the world, into a cultural force while continuing to up its designer collaborations. Her focus has been on Zara, where she’s brought in talents including Steven Meisel and Luca Guadagnino to collaborate on campaigns and special projects. She has also opened the Marta Ortega Pérez(MOP) Foundation in A Coruña, the port city in northeastern Spain where Inditex was born. Past shows at MOP have focused on Peter Lindbergh and Meisel, while the current one is called “David Bailey’s Changing Fashion.”
Phoebe Philo, designer
One of the most bankable designers of her generation, and one of the most elusive, Philo established a golden track record of business-building tenures at Chloé and Celine, occasionally taking breaks between gigs to gather her strength and thoughts, and tend to her young family. The British designer made a stealthy comeback in 2023 with a namesake label hinged on her brand of modern minimalism, womanly allure and uncompromising quality. In the mold of Azzedine Alaïa, she operates outside the fashion system, forgoing shows and viral marketing and doing things her way.
Pierpaolo Piccioli, creative director, Balenciaga
Piccioli is known for having plied romance, glamour and couture grandeur at Valentino, where he took on sole creative duties in 2016 after Maria Grazia Chiuri headed to Dior. He’s admired for his mastery of daring volumes and exquisite color sensibility, especially through his acclaimed haute couture collections. He exited the brand after 25 years and this year was tapped to succeed Demna at Balenciaga. He’ll present his first designs during Paris Fashion Week in October, undoubtedly marking a decided shift in style at the iconic French label.
François-Henri Pinault, chairman, Kering
As chairman and CEO of PPR and then Kering since 2005, Pinault has transformed the company from a diversified retail conglomerate into a leading luxury group. An advocate for sustainability and gender equity, Pinault spearheaded the group’s environmental initiatives and launched the Fashion Pact, a global coalition for climate action. But Kering has lost significant ground in the luxury space over the last few years as its core Gucci brand has slowed and Pinault is handing over operational duties to turnaround specialist Luca de Meo. He remains chairman of Kering and president of Groupe Artémis, the Pinault family holding company.
Marc Puig, chairman and CEO, Puig
The third generation’s the charm at Puig, where family scion Puig, grandson of company founder Antonio Puig Castelló, has been CEO for more than 20 years. During that time he has built the company into a 3 billion euro powerhouse by amassing some of the buzziest — and most creative — brands in fashion and beauty. No wonder it was Europe’s largest IPO last year.
Michael Rider, artistic director, Celine
When number-two designers started taking up the creative helms of Europe’s legacy brands, Rider’s name would come up frequently given his track record as a senior designer at Balenciaga and Celine, ultimately becoming creative director at Polo Ralph Lauren in New York. The Brown University graduate was finally beckoned back to Paris with the plum, but challenging, role of succeeding Hedi Slimane at Celine. He did a bang-up job with his spring 2026 debut, riffing on the legacies of Slimane, Phoebe Philo and namesake founder Céline Vipiana while injecting his own flair.
Law Roach, image architect and stylist
Roach has helped reshape modern celebrity fashion — and is turning the job of “stylist” into “image architect.” Best known for his collaborations with Zendaya, he has crafted trendsetting styles for red carpet events and campaigns with looks rooted in storytelling. His influence extends to being in front of the camera as well as a judge on shows “Legendary,” “Project Runway” and “RuPaul’s Drag Race.”
Chappell Roan, singer
Primarily known as a rising musician, Roan recently made waves in the fashion world with her bold and experimental sense of self-expression. She translates her unique pop artistry into her personal style, often featuring vintage-inspired and highly creative couture looks. Her outfits at Paris Fashion Week in March catapulted her into the next level of fashion stars.
Daniel Roseberry, artistic director, Schiaparelli
Roseberry spent over a decade at Thom Browne as design director of men’s and women’s collections before Diego Della Valle named him artistic director of Schiaparelli in 2019. He’s revitalized the famed fashion house with surreal, sculptural designs that have gained traction on the red carpet and among high-net-worth clients, winning the 2024 Neiman Marcus Award for Creative Impact in the Field of Fashion. With a new Schiaparelli retrospective bowing at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum next year, his creations are sure to remain in the spotlight.
Olivier Rousteing, creative director, Balmain
Creative director of Balmain since 2011, Rousteing has revitalized the house with his bold, opulent designs, blending modern glamour with winks to the legacy of founder Pierre Balmain. What’s more, he thrust himself and the house to social media stardom; put diversity and inclusivity at the top of his agenda, and took a community-building approach to everything he did, welcoming all to join his “Balmain army” as early as 2014, later inviting the public to massive music festival-style fashion shows. His inner circle includes the likes of Cher, Beyoncé Knowles-Carter, Kim Cattrall and Tyla.
Paolo Roversi, photographer
The Italian photographer has been celebrated for his dreamlike, poetic imagery since the onset of his career in 1970. Roversi gained wide recognition for his Dior beauty campaign in 1980 and has since redefined fashion photography into fine art-meets-commercial work with his use of natural light and large-format Polaroids.
Remo Ruffini, chairman and CEO of Moncler Group
Since taking over the helm of the outerwear specialist in 2003, Ruffini has undertaken a global brand reset and elevated Moncler to a luxury positioning offering all categories of fashion and accessories as well as launching the collections Genius and Grenoble, its highest-performance line. He led the company to a listing on the Milan Stock Exchange in 2013 and expanded Moncler into a group with the acquisition of Stone Island in 2021. Even more, he’s successfully led Moncler to buck the current luxury downturn.