After twenty-something years covering shows, I thought I’d seen every turn of fashion’s carousel — until spring 2026. Paris closed a month of creative-director musical chairs, with some daring twisting of the archives and other designs that elevated craftsmanship to entirely new heights. From these debut collections, I’ve singled out my nine favorite looks — pieces that capture the season’s spirit, its boldest ideas, and that won’t look tired by the following week’s Instagram scroll.
Dior by Jonathan Anderson
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There’s nothing more timeless than this Dior “simple” black dress — but there’s nothing simple about this one. Channeling full Marie Antoinette panache, it turns 18th-century pannier drama into something sharply modern and unmistakably red carpet ready. Jonathan Anderson at his best.
Chanel by Matthieu Blazy
What strikes me here is the way eveningwear gets rewritten through a daytime lens, with that razor-sharp shirt — a Charvet collab — paired with the red plumed skirt and giving the whole look a subtle subversive glamour. Very Sharon Stone at the Oscars in 1998.
Versace by Dario Vitale
What’s not to love! So Gianni, so ’80s Miami: a tank top polo with a daring side cutout and spray‑painted high-waisted jeans from one of the most polarizing collection debuts of the season. And it’s worth mentioning, Gen Z nightlife crowd is still obsessing over it.
Bottega Veneta by Louise Trotter
My own childhood obsession with fiberglass lamps made me fall for this orangey‑yellow sculptural look even harder. Fiberglass fringes expertly crafted to catch the light is a radiant testament to Bottega’s unparalleled craftsmanship and Louise Trotter’s bold vision. I am here for it!
Loewe by Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez
I keep coming back to this green neoprene hourglass coat over the black jumpsuit — it’s architectural and minimal , a little unexpected, and somehow effortlessly new Loewe. The plastic double shoes are… questionable, but that side-handle white bag is a must-have.
Celine by Michael Rider
Making a choice for Celine was tough — I loved all the scarf dressing, but this structured black blazer over blue jeans, anchored with a layered metal-buckled belt and inventive white shirt, felt like a celebration of the preppy‑bourgeois look that has been so influential since Michael Rider took over at Celine. And, those red heels are a keeper.
Balenciaga by Pierpaolo Piccioli
Balenciaga by Pierpaolo Piccioli was one of my favorite shows of the season. This long black V‑neck dress pays homage to the sack dress, embodying Cristóbal Balenciaga’s most architectural shapes, paired with white leather opera gloves, batwing sunglasses — a single wink to his predecessor — and the whole look totally Piccioli.
Mugler by Miguel Castro Freitas
This architectural, monochromatic nude look feels futuristic and almost AI-inspired — sharp, precise and otherworldly. The blazer sculpts the waist, while the skirt splits at the hips like insect wings. Mugler has always been about cinematic, powerful women, and this feels like the perfect next chapter. Sci-fi glamour? Absolutely.
Maison Margiela by Glenn Martens
This look perfectly conveyed Margiela’s codes and Martens’s vision blended seamlessly. Martens reinterpreted the house through craftsmanship, deconstruction, inversion and asymmetric construction. Peeled wallpaper prints and sheer layers added texture and depth, and yes — the metal mouthpieces may have been unnecessary, but a little drama always helps at a show and I am sure we will see those in many editorials to come. You will see.