PARIS — Buyers in the French capital for the spring apparel trade shows were honing in on relaxed shapes and natural colors, proving that ostentation is out for next season, despite a tentative rise in budgets.
“Sheer, feminine and organic are key words,” said Loretta Soffe, executive vice president and general merchandise manager for Nordstrom Inc.
Soffe said she liked “gorgeous sheer fabrics” shown by Italy’s Pool at Atmosphère’s in the Tuileries. Soffe said her budget was “conservatively up” for next season.
Standout items in Pool’s collection included a short-sleeve sheer cotton cardigan and matching top, priced at $170 and $156 wholesale, respectively, in blush, black or white, as well as an open-shoulder oversize poncho blouse in a cotton and silk blend at $128. New customers for the four-year-old line include specialty store Curve, as well as Nordstrom.
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Many time-pressed buyers were attending the shows only for appointments.
“We come to Tranoï especially for Forte Forte,” said Samantha Robinson, director and buyer for The Cross in London. “Their vintage look is very special to us. The recession has meant that the focus is more on understated luxury and fine quality goods that look effortless.” Italy’s Forte Forte, sold under the Giada Forte label in North America, specializes in coal-dyed silks and cottons. For spring, key items included a vintage palm-print silk crossover dress in carta da zucchero, a delicate pale turquoise, priced at 127 euros, or $175 at current exchange.
Meanwhile, organizers of the first edition of Designers & Agents Paris at the Galerie Nikki Diana Marquardt off Place des Vosges, were delighted with the turnout.
“We’ve had the highest quality of buyers we could possibly expect,” event co-owner Barbara Kramer said.
Hideki Saida, ladies’ wear buyer for Mitsukoshi’s Ginza store in Tokyo, had come by D&A especially to see designs from New York-based Ian. He selected the label’s fluid ombré cap-sleeve cupro dress in tan and black, priced at $218, as a key item.
Asian buyers were out in force at Rendez-Vous.
“The show has been busy every day,” Rendez-Vous organizer Nic Jones said. “South Korea is getting stronger again and the Japanese are really important. We’ve had some good American stores like Scoop and Curve because we reached out to U.S. buyers ahead of the show.” At Vendôme Luxury’s venue in the Hotel Meurice, London-based Deploy’s multifunctional tailoring stood out. Bestsellers include a red trenchcoat with removable sleeves to convert into a dress, priced at 203 pounds, or $322. The multifunctional concept is in line with the times as it “encourages people to consume fashion in a less wasteful way,” brand founder and director Bernice Pan said.
Pan said business had been good, with contacts from stores including Isetan and Matsuya in Japan, Harvey Nichols Hong Kong and Wilkes Bashford in San Francisco.
Also showing at Vendôme for the first time was New York-based jewelry designer Juniper Rose with her medieval-inspired Falconière label. Rose launched her own line this year following a successful collaboration with Donna Karan.
“I was able to meet and solidify my relationships with my major retailers, Net-a-porter, Luisa Via Roma and On Pedder, and I made some new connections as well,” Rose said.