Color, Craft and Chanel: What Buyers Loved in Paris

PARIS — It was one for the history books, and soon to be on the sales floor.

With big debuts at the major houses, this Paris Fashion Week will be remembered as a game-changer. Buyers across the board called it a “reset” for the industry, with a new focus on design, craftsmanship and creativity.

“It wasn’t about chasing noise; it was about giving us pieces with depth and purpose that still feel exciting to wear,” said Jessica Crawley, fashion buying director at Ounass.

Still, buzz abounded, particularly around the season’s wave of designer debuts.

Topping the list was Matthieu Blazy’s highly anticipated first collection for Chanel, cited by buyers as both the strongest debut and one of the best collections of the week. Alongside Chanel, Alaïa emerged as a frontrunner, each receiving 11 mentions in buyers’ top collections, followed closely by Saint Laurent, Balenciaga and Dior.

Paris pulsed with optimism and renewed energy. “If there was a Paris Fashion Week for the history books this was it. It was electrifying, exhilarating, full of creativity and incredibly emotional with so many heart-stopping moments,” said Roopal Patel, senior vice president, fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus. “It is clear that the fashion landscape has changed with this new creative pulse.”

Buyers across the board believe this new burst of creativity and the excitement around new names is expected to align closely with retail demand this season, highlighting the vibrant color palettes seen across Loewe, Celine, Miu Miu and Valentino.

But the week was set against the backdrop of global political turmoil and economic uncertainty, including a day of strikes that hung up traffic around Paris.

“It has been difficult to fully engage with this extraordinary run of debuts and reinventions while dark headlines flicker on our phones,” said Bloomingdale’s fashion director David Thielebeule, who noted that Alessandro Michele at Valentino stood apart for addressing “reality head on” through both his opening reading and his more restrained collection — by Michele standards at least.

“It will take time for all this change to settle, and one wonders how clients will keep pace with such sweeping reinvention,” he added.

Yet despite global headwinds, the mood among buyers remains buoyant and budgets are generally up. Bosse Myhr, director of womenswear and menswear at Selfridges, predicted “a strong buying season ahead.”

Where budgets remain flat, buyers are looking for fresh names. Julie Kegels emerged as the most cited talent to watch, alongside interest in Alainpaul and Matières Fécales, despite hesitations around the name.

“There’s a clear return to dressing up this season, with nipped waists and high heels making a comeback,” said Rickie De Sole, vice president, fashion director at Nordstrom. Color and bold floral prints are also in play, while buyers noted a return to structure, shape, and femininity — peplums, twisted tailoring, delicate lace, and transparency were all key trends.

“There’s a collective sense that fashion is entering a new phase — one defined by emotion, tactility and individuality,” said Tiffany Hsu, chief buying officer at Mytheresa.

Added Printemps buying director Maud Pupato: “A new era for the industry is coming, and it’s very promising.”

Below, store buyers give their takes on the season:

Kate Benson, chief merchant, Harvey Nichols

Favorite collections: Alaia, Loewe, Chloe, Saint Laurent, Issey Miyake

Favorite debut: Loewe — it was such a confident start and felt like the best example of strong trends that we’ve seen throughout the season of bold, primary colors. I also thought they did such a good job of belonging within the house whilst also making it entirely their own.

Best show format: The Dries Van Noten finale was so powerful where you felt the full impact of Julian’s creativity in the very simple space, such a contrast from L’Opéra last season. I love how Julian Klausner is interpreting the collection and taking it in a really modern direction.

Top trends: Primary colors and surprising combinations, bold prints, sleek ’90s tailoring and fringing.

Investment piece: I’m going all-in for finale look at Chanel.

New talent: I think Julie Kegels is producing really beautiful collections and definitely a brand that we are very interested in.

Impressions of the week: Spring 2026 is one for the history books and a privilege to be part of. Everything felt renewed and each debut collection a redefining of the new era.

Beth Buccini, owner and founder, Kirna Zabête

Favorite collections: Balenciaga, Loewe, Alaïa, Saint Laurent, Gabriela Hearst

Favorite debut: Chanel was obviously completely out of this world and such a thrill. Otherwise, it was a tie between Balenciaga and Loewe. Balenciaga was a fantastic start that served as both a palate cleanser and an amuse-bouche. Pierpaolo paid homage to Cristóbal’s iconic architectural shapes but presented them in a modern way. Loewe was fresh and vibrant, with hints of Spanish roots and a touch of coolness and sexiness. I’m thrilled for Jack and Lazaro, who have worked incredibly hard for this role and deserve immense praise. 

Best show format: I loved Pierpaolo’s Balenciaga show with his gorgeous clothes and amazing music. Chanel’s set was insanely beautiful. Alaïa’s house of mirrors catwalk was super special. Saint Laurent’s flower-filled Eiffel Tower backdrop was fabulous. 

Top trends: It was great to see so much color in Paris — especially the primary colors of red, yellow and bright blues. It was a season of peak craftsmanship, with fabrics featuring intricate details, such as fringe, flou and flowers. There were numerous plays on volume with new shapes and silhouettes that are looser and more relaxed. Soft tailoring is everywhere.

Investment piece: Skinny pants and floral tops from Chloé. A sculpted leather dress or jacket from Loewe. Flip-flops and a party dress from Balenciaga. A tasseled Alaïa skirt.

Budgets up or down: Budgets are up, as the customer will be excited about all the newness. The designers all had such real points of view this season. It feels like everyone really went for it, and these bold visions and new directions will guarantee the customer is excited to shop.

Impressions of the week: What an absolutely thrilling week that started off with models parading through hydrangeas under the Eiffel Tower with a beautiful Saint Laurent show and ended with the Big Bang at Chanel. This was the much-needed jolt of joy, creativity and freshness the luxury world desperately needed. The pressure was on big time, but the designers didn’t disappoint. It is tricky to pay homage to a house’s heritage while presenting it in a modern and exciting way, and many designers managed to do both this season, at a time when expectations are higher than ever. We always come to Paris for the magic, and it delivered more than ever this season.

Brigitte Chartrand, chief buying and merchandising officer, Net-a-porter

Favorite collections: Valentino, The Row, Alaïa, Comme des Garçons, Miu Miu

Favorite debut: Jonathan Anderson at Dior

Best show format: Maison Margiela — the children’s orchestra was incredible, alongside a brilliant collection. I also really enjoyed Thom Browne. It is rare to go to a show and witness something that genuinely surprises you and excites you. 

Top trends: We have seen primary colors and bold monochromatic looks all over the runway this season. We’re also seeing plenty of archival and ’80s references, which have been reimagined with a modern twist. Crochet and artisanal embellishments have also had a strong presence this season and we have seen roses everywhere.

Investment piece: The thigh-high fringe socks at Alaïa, in all colors.

New talent: Christen — we had a preview of their new collection, and we are so excited to launch the brand at Net-a-porter. 

Impressions of the week: The energy this season has been incredible. You could really feel the excitement around all the new beginnings. It was such a strong season, and it made me genuinely excited to see what is next.

Jessica Crawley, fashion buying director, Ounass

Favorite collections: Balenciaga, Alaïa, Chloé, Zimmermann, Saint Laurent

Favorite debut: Pierpaolo Piccioli at Balenciaga, it felt like a true reset. His take was thoughtful, emotional and respectful of the house’s DNA, and set a tone of elevated sophistication that made the debut feel both fresh and timeless.

Best show format: Alaïa and Stella McCartney stood out. Alaïa’s staging was intimate and powerful, allowing the clothes to be the focus. Stella’s show was upbeat and energetic, with a strong sense of community that reminded everyone why her runway is always such a highlight.

Top trends: Collections this season felt feminine and wearable. Lingerie-inspired dressing and transparency were everywhere, with lace-trimmed silks at Magda Butrym, Saint Laurent, Chloé, Stella McCartney and Victoria Beckham. Tailoring shifted to a softer, more deconstructed feel, with draped fabrics and cocoon silhouettes at Balenciaga, Alaïa and Chloé showing how structure can be fluid without losing strength. Bubble hems returned across skirts, pants and jackets, proving the detail can feel sharp and modern when well executed, while skirts in every form — sharp and structured, flowing and asymmetric — emerged as the defining piece of spring 2026. Overall, silhouettes were sculptural but softened, with strong shoulders, cocooned volumes and airy draping that created shape without rigidity. The palette was restrained, with neutrals and muted tones layered with richer accents to let silhouette and texture remain the focus.

Investment piece: The bubble jacket or coat. Some of the strongest came from Chloé, Balenciaga and Magda Butrym.

Budgets up or down: Sales remain strong — budgets are up.

New talent: Julian Klausner at Dries Van Noten may not be entirely new to the house, but with his sophomore women’s collection he delivered with real confidence. His point of view was clear, staying true to the brand’s DNA while pushing it forward. Definitely one to watch.

Impressions of the week: What stood out this week was that designers were not trying to shock or overcomplicate. Instead, they returned to structure and craftsmanship, with real emotion behind the collections. The clothes felt thoughtful and sincere rather than big for the sake of being big. It wasn’t about chasing noise; it was about giving us pieces with depth and purpose that still feel exciting to wear. The wave of debuts was of course the conversation of the week, bringing a sense of buzz and freshness that made Paris feel lively and full of energy.

Jennifer Cuvillier, style director, Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche and Samaritaine Paris

Favorite collections: Christian Dior, Chanel, Celine, Alaïa, The Row, Dries Van Noten

Favorite debut: Christian Dior, Celine, Chanel

Best show format: The immersive new world with projections and screens at Dior, Chanel but also more intimate shows in house and in fact “the house” has been used several times for the invitation or decor to emphasize the DNA of the brand. Shows with the inside/outside format with discovery of hidden gardens in Paris, or outside Paris, made a special environment, disconnected from the city to discover the next summer collection.

Top trends: The couture-inspired silhouette is key this season, a modern daily elegance. The new volume silhouette that redefines the body shape, with balloon shapes, oversize shoulders, maxi-volume fluid dresses, peplums [with] twisted feminine tailoring. Everything is made to recreate the silhouette.

Bright bold colors and sunny pastels highlighted the neutral palette colors as well as luminous black and whites. Bold flower prints were also key.

Flats, sandals and new flip flops were also key on the runways, in the same color palette as the ready-to-wear.

Investment piece: Summer suiting; romantic, dramatic fluid dresses.

New talent: CFCL

Impressions of the week: Paris is always very strong in creativity, diversity and dynamic, particularly this week with all the newness, and the first collections of several artistic directors, made it very special and exciting. The major established brands delivered beautiful summer collections, as well as all the dynamism of thousands of showrooms around the city from rtw, shoes, bags and jewelry, plus trade shows. It was an amazing week, which makes Paris so special.

Giuseppe D’Amato, buying and merchandising director, Rinascente

Favorite collections: Chanel, Dior, Balenciaga, Valentino, Tom Ford

Favorite debut: Chanel

Best show format: Tom Ford’s blue lacquered set and David Bowie’s a cappella voice made me very excited. Chanel’s final exit at Grand Palais with the “Snap” song playing in the background — it galvanized me.

Top trends: Drapes, ruffles and fringes were the rules of the catwalks. Plenty of feminine materials and lots of leather across all product categories.

Investment piece: Must-haves include straight-leg trousers, skirts with vents, shirts with ruffles, asymmetric dresses and the essential leather piece. A pump or a mule, present on many catwalks, is a must-have.

Budgets up or down: There are many designer proposals that make new desire to invest.

New talent: We are watching the evolution of Zomer.

Impressions of the week: The calendar was packed with interesting events, ranging from exciting debuts to exciting proposals from established designers.

Laura Darmon, buyer director and business development, ENG China

Favorite collections: McQueen, Tom Ford, Chanel, Hodakova, Ann Demeulemeester

Best show format: Courrèges — with sunglasses as invitations and exceptionally strong lighting and sound design. Nicolas [Di Felice] always knows how to stage his designs through impactful scenography.

Top trends: Full leather looks and sharp tailoring, with many army-inspired or utilitarian elements on jackets.

Investment piece: Leather jackets, messenger bags.

Budgets up or down: Up. We’re growing with our existing partners while adding exciting new names.

New talent: Matières Fécales, Laura Andrashko, Torishéju

Impressions of the week: Many emerging designers presented exceptionally well-crafted collections. Some established brands have clearly stepped up their game in terms of quality.

Rickie De Sole, vice president, fashion director, Nordstrom

Favorite collections: Chanel, Tom Ford, Dior, The Row, Celine, Alaïa 

Favorite debut: Chanel delivered a confident debut from Matthieu Blazy. The energy in the room was incredible, and the collection a triumph — we loved the looser silhouettes and the movement in the clothes. Covetable accessories ranged from fantastic footwear to new bag styles and bold jewelry. The focus was on craftsmanship and marrying the codes of the past with the modern day.

Best show format: There was a lot that wowed us this season. The immersive set at Chanel, the movie that opened the show at Dior, the cinematic quality of Haider Ackerman’s Tom Ford show, Rick Owens’ models wading through the Palais de Tokyo fountain, and the use of digital projections to create an immersive, layered visual environment at Alaïa. The best formats felt personal and immersive — great music, thoughtful pacing and a real sense of atmosphere. To begin to feel the story behind each collection before the first look even walked out was a testament to how creatively the designers and their teams set the stage. 

Top trends: There’s a clear return to dressing up this season, with nipped waists and high heels making a comeback. Color is back in a big way — bold shades lit up the runways at Loewe, Dries Van Noten, Balenciaga and Tom Ford, whose suits stood out for their punchy vibrancy. The art of the reveal dominated the season, from a bare bum at McQueen to laser-cut leather bra tops at Tom Ford and bodysuits at Givenchy — skin is in for spring. 

Investment piece: Matthieu Blazy’s Chanel debut reimagined the house’s signature cap-toe in sculptural slingbacks. They are elegant, directional and grounded in heritage. Michael Rider’s spring bags for Celine reworked house icons with quiet precision. The new Luggage silhouettes and leather pochettes referenced Phoebe [Philo]-era minimalism, while structured raffia totes added a fun, collectible edge. Miu Miu’s spring apron is bound to be a playful layering piece for the brand’s cool-girl devotees. Quirky and styled with irreverence — it’s the season’s unexpected must-have. 

New talent: Julie Kegels continues to impress with her confident yet quirky collection. Lace slips and embroidered skirts stood out as favorites. 

Impressions of the week: Show after show delivered standout fashion, and the energy around the collections suggests a strong season ahead. It was a season full of standout presentations that bridged the creative and the commercial. Covetable, must-have pieces from Jonathan Anderson’s Dior, Michael Rider’s Celine, and Chanel under Matthieu Blazy’s direction felt fresh and desirable. New faces in the front row — from Ayo Edebiri at Chanel to Mikey Madison at Dior — helped signal a shift toward a new generation.

Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion office and store presentation, Bergdorf Goodman

Favorite collections: Balenciaga, Chanel, Schiaparelli, Dior, Celine, Alaïa

Favorite debut: That’s an impossible question, but Chanel was the most highly anticipated and exciting debut, positioned in the last slot of the week in the most epic space in Paris. There was so much energy and love for the brand in the Grand Palais. It was a privilege and a thrill to see Chanel through the modernist lens of Matthieu Blazy who gave us so much to unpack. 

Jonathan Anderson at Dior, Pierpaolo Picciolo at Balenciaga, Michael Rider for Celine Women’s, and Jack [McCollough] and Lazaro [Hernandez] at Loewe received honorable mentions.

Best show format: Paris is the place for some of the highest forms that fashion can take along with the best support materials and formats. The most transporting and creative set designs, venue theatrics, collectible invitations and well-dressed attendees.

We loved being in Alaïa’s reflective and immersive video space. As well as the week’s other incredible use of digital video art, like at Dior with their historical and artful fast-paced montage projected on the inverted pyramid. It was a quintessential Paris experience sitting within the maze of the Cassandre logo impressively made with gorgeous white hydrangeas for Saint Lauren’s show, while under the sparkling gaze at the Eiffel Tower. The sounds of a new birth, with the new heartbeat of Balenciaga sent to us on our own cassette players, was so creative and wonderful. And of course, the awesome Chanel universe shown in the grandest space in Paris. 

Top trends: A sense of drama was seen through statement proportions and volumes, strong shoulders, ballgown skirts and daring reveals. Color as an investment. Something she doesn’t have. Primary colors emerged here, but even more intriguing were the unexpected combos. Pops of color in accessories were VIP. Getting dressed up counts, polished in a new chic and definitively not casual [way]. Movement was everywhere; seen in ballooning, trailing, swinging fringe, flyaway and feathery. “Femme Femme.” The hourglass shape, florals, lingerie references, ruffles in tiers, lace. Draped and organic asymmetrical constructions. The curved line as seen in egg-shaped and bubble silhouettes. Statement accessories played a bigger role than ever this season, seen in scarves, necklaces and headwear.

Investment piece: A curved leather piece from the new Balenciaga. A minimalist cut-off jacket or a chain weighted shirt from Chanel. The hourglass jacket from Loewe. The scarf collage tops and skinny pants from Celine. The back zipper caban coat from Alaïa.

New talent: Alainpaul has been showing a few seasons, but he really struck a chord with this collection. Matières Fécales made some exquisite pieces, despite their challenging name.

Impressions of the week: This will always be remembered as an unforgettable season. History happened here with an unprecedented number of fashion revolutions and evolutions. Calculated risks were made, and the way we see it, they’re going to pay off. We love the new directions with our most important brands. Even houses without the pressure of a creative debut upped their game and went for it. If you’re in the business of fashion luxury, Paris is where you find it as the center point of metier and transformative design. There’s a collective sigh of relief in Paris today, and that special glow of satisfaction. The industry did some of its best work. 

April Hennig, president, Moda Operandi

Favorite collections: Alaïa, The Row, Celine, Saint Laurent, Balenciaga

Favorite debut: Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez delivered on a global stage with their debut at Loewe, deftly combining their modern, sporty sensibility with the conceptual codes of the house. 

Best show format: The Alaïa show, set at the beautiful Fondation Cartier, was a moving visual display. The digital imagery projected on the LED panel floor reflected on a mirrored ceiling creating a truly immersive experience that was intimate and profoundly moving.

Top trends: The Paris collections set an overall tone of optimistic escapism. The color palettes are bright and bold across several collections including Dries and Loewe, while Chloé, Miu Miu and Zimmermann leaned into vivid, dense floral prints ranging from jewel tones to neons. Several designers (Rabanne, Coperni) looked to surf and beach culture as a reference, while others proposed a new take on femininity in the form of smocking (Victoria Beckham, Magda Butrym), bubble hems (Balenciaga and Alaïa) and hip-accentuating silhouettes (Gabriela Hearst, Mugler). Feathers continue to be the star of the season — there were accents at The Row and Giambattista, plant-made versions at Stella McCartney and trompe-l’oeils at Balenciaga. We love the fresh perspectives on the trenchcoat (billowing at Chloé, puff sleeved at Gabriela Hearst, and in satin for evening at Givenchy), drop waists (Chanel, Chloe), a return of skinny pants, and dressed-up denim (paired with strong-shouldered jackets at both Chloé and Valentino). 

Investment piece: This season’s investment pieces are all about opulence and embellishment: Gabriela Hearst’s suede coat with charm-adorned fringe trim, the silk tassel skirts at Alaïa, evening gowns at Balenciaga that referenced Cristobal’s original silhouettes, the feathered apron skirt at The Row, the embroidered shift dresses at Miu Miu, and the crystal-covered bomber at Dries Van Noten. The must haves are Alaïa’s fringe thigh-high stockings, the candy-hued point-toe pumps at Tom Ford, Gabriela Hearst’s raffia espadrilles, the plaid overshirts at Victoria Beckham, the suede Le City bags and colorful leather opera gloves at Balenciaga, and Chloé’s cropped cape tops, jelly thong sandals, and painted swan clutch.

Budgets up or down: Budgets are up based on our positive business trend and the strong collection offerings. 

Impressions of the week: Paris was buzzing with unprecedented energy as new creative directors took the stage, some leading houses in full rebrand mode, others breathing fresh life into legacy codes. From bold reinterpretations of heritage to visionary new aesthetics, the season was defined by confidence and creativity.

Tiffany Hsu, chief buying officer, Mytheresa

Favorite collections: Saint Laurent, Chloé, Dior, Miu Miu, Chanel, Alaïa

Favorite debut: Chanel. Matthieu Blazy’s debut brought a renewed sense of purity and sophistication to the house. The silhouettes were clean yet fluid with a focus on craftsmanship, a return to essentials without losing the poetic codes of the house.

Best show format: Duran Lantink’s vision at Jean Paul Gaultier was one of the most exciting moments of the week. The energy in the room was palpable — it felt like a true conversation between heritage and the new guard. The presentation balanced theater with wearability, keeping the audience engaged from start to finish. It captured exactly what Paris Fashion Week should be about: emotion, innovation and storytelling.

Top trends: There was a clear celebration of the body — from exaggerated hips and exposed hip bones to body stockings styled as outerwear. Designers are embracing curves and structure, moving away from oversize comfort toward sculptural silhouettes. Heavy layering and strong hourglass shapes defined the season, creating a balance of softness and strength. Tassels, fringes and feathers added movement and sensuality, bringing a tactile dimension back to fashion.

Investment piece: The Saint Laurent leather biker jacket perfectly captured the spirit of modern rebellion with luxury craftsmanship. Dior’s new soft tote is destined to become a key commercial hit — versatile yet elevated. Loewe’s large Amazona bag and The Row’s satin mini tote both spoke to understated sophistication. And for those who love a statement, Chloe’s plexiglass wedges and Miu Miu’s apron dress injected just the right dose of playfulness into the mix.

Impressions of the week: The week felt full of anticipation and optimism. There’s a collective sense that fashion is entering a new phase — one defined by emotion, tactility and individuality. Everyone was buzzing about unexpected creative directions and the boldness of some presentations. It was inspiring to see the industry reengage with artistry after several seasons of restraint — a reminder that creativity still drives everything we do.

Elizabeth and Dominick Lepore, owners, Jimmy’s New York and the Hamptons 

Favorite collections: Chanel, Ludovic de Saint Sernin, Nina Ricci, Saint Laurent 

Best debut: Matthieu Blazy for Chanel and Pierpaolo Piccioli, who debuted his first collection as creative director for Balenciaga.

Best show format: The hydrangeas alongside the Eiffel Tower for Saint Laurent.

Top trends: This season’s trends balanced structure with emotion. Modern tailoring led the way — sharp shoulders, pencil skirts and capes in every shape and form. Corsetry was key, adding sculptural elegance, while black dresses dominated in endless reimaginings. We saw pops of red, pedal pushers and vintage nods like bow blouses and point-toe slingbacks. Feathers, lace and fringe brought softness and movement, and hints of leg in short shorts and harem pants added subtle sensuality. A season grounded in heritage but designed for now.

Investment piece: A sculpted cape or tailored corset blazer, modern armor for the discerning woman, rooted in heritage but made for now.

Budgets up or down: Up — customers are responding to elevated emotion and timeless elegance with edge. There’s confidence in wardrobe staples that feel meaningful and beautifully made, especially within special occasion dressing, which we focus on. 

New talent: Harris Reed at Nina Ricci — bringing fantasy to structure, especially in corsets and glam tailoring; designers reworking heritage houses — reinvention, not nostalgia.

Impressions of the week: A season of elegance with emotion. Designers looked to the past not for repetition, but revelation. Royalty and celebrities in the front rows made this season even more electric than usual, showcasing modern dramatic tailoring as every detail felt cinematic. Black dresses dominated, capes swept, corsets sculpted, and fashion once again stirred the soul. A triumphant, intelligent season that speaks to both legacy and modernity — perfectly aligned with our own story.

Simon Longland, director of buying, fashion, Harrods

Favorite collections: Tom Ford, Alaïa, Schiaparelli, Balenciaga, The Row

Favorite debut: Matthieu Blazy’s debut for Chanel was outstanding. He managed to strike the perfect balance between respect for the house’s storied codes and a clear forward-looking vision. It set a powerful tone for the season and signaled a very exciting new chapter for Chanel.

Best show format: Format and setting played a key role in how collections were experienced this season. Céline’s show in the Parc de Saint-Cloud created a rare moment of calm and intimacy, immersing us in nature in the midst of an intense week. Saint Laurent, staged against the illuminated Eiffel Tower at night, delivered sheer theatricality, while Chanel transformed the Grand Palais into a galaxy, offering a spectacle as ambitious as the collection itself.

Top trends: The overarching trend this season was a return to elegance, often referencing the refined silhouettes of the 1920s and 1950s. Designers such as Balenciaga, The Row, Givenchy and Chanel explored this through cut, proportion and fabric, creating collections that felt timeless yet relevant. Alongside this came a sensuality expressed through lingerie-inspired details — lace trims, slips and bra tops reimagined with couture-level craftsmanship.

There was also a focus on decorative volume, with feathers, fringing and shaggy textures adding movement and drama, while at the same time collections were anchored by wardrobe staples such as shirts and T-shirts, cleverly juxtaposed with more opulent pieces to create a dialogue between high and low. Tailoring remained essential, with sharply cut black and white jackets serving as the backbone of many collections, while statement sleeves, sculptural skirts and striking color stories broke the dominance of monochrome and injected vibrancy into the season. Accessories, from silk scarves to bold belts, provided the finishing touches, underscoring how detail completes the narrative of a look.

Investment piece: This was a season filled with pieces to covet, but it would be impossible — and perhaps misguided — to single out just one. True investment comes from pieces that resonate deeply and personally, items you find yourself thinking about long after the show has ended. An investment is not only a reflection of a brand’s DNA but something you return to year after year, pieces that carry emotional weight as well as enduring style.

New talent: While the schedule was dominated by major debuts and second collections, leaving little space for smaller voices, there were still discoveries to be made. We came across some beautifully considered collections from new names, and we look forward to introducing them at Harrods in the future.

Impressions of the week: Paris offered a fashion week unlike any other. With so many debuts and sophomore collections, we saw an extraordinary reset that brought out the best in some of the industry’s most talented designers. There was a renewed sense of creativity and purpose throughout the week, which I believe will resonate particularly strongly in the months ahead. Nowhere was this more evident than in the accessories categories, which felt invigorated and ready to capture the imagination of clients globally.

The creativity and confidence we saw in Paris will translate beautifully for our clients. This renewed emphasis on ready-to-wear, alongside the continued strength of accessories, mirrors what we see resonating in store. We have recently opened new flagship spaces for many of these maisons, and in spring 2026 we will continue to expand, including the launch of Tom Ford womenswear. The energy and inspiration from Paris Fashion Week will flow directly into our offering, ensuring our clients have access to the most exceptional and relevant fashion in the world.

Alix Morabito, global buying director, Galeries Lafayette

Favorite collections: Chanel, Saint Laurent, Alaïa, Dior, Celine

Favorite debuts: At Dior, Jonathan embraces the heritage and codes of the house with a strong creative approach. At Chanel, Matthieu breathes new life into Gabrielle, revisiting her early days of couture from the 1920s. Jack and Lazaro have worked on a very straightforward direction at Loewe. At Margiela, we felt Martin [Margiela] and Glenn M., who managed to deliver an unfiltered and unconventional approach both in the set and in the collection.

Best show format: Chanel’s set brought us back to Karl’s [Lagerfeld] days with an extremely impactful and theatrical large-scale set. Glenn’s [Martens] orchestra for Maison Margiela with kids dressed up as adults was extremely touching and reminds us of the emotion we have felt during Martin Margiela’s shows. Alaïa’s installation was impressive, playing with huge screens on the floor that reflected into the ceiling’s mirror. Céline welcomed us in a calm garden on a sunny Sunday morning, inviting us to get outside of busy Paris and breathe. Alain Paul’s concept of a ballerina’s audition at Alainpaul was very poetic and aligned with the brand’s spirit and collection.

Top trends: It’s a summery and colorful season, where a romantic and younger femininity hatches. Mini wrapped skirts, short baby-doll silhouettes, lingerie details and bras, draped tops and dresses, pop and acidic colors, floral prints, kitten heels and little wedge sandals, preppy knitwear styling. But this retro femininity is twisted with a lot of sport references: bombers, slim pants, technical swimsuits, colorful shoes and sneakers, multicolored stripes and functional accessories.

Investment piece: Big leather jackets and bombers, shirting and white poplin tops and dresses, wrapped skirts and dresses, baby-doll dresses, swimsuits and bras, flash of colors.

New talent: Alain Paul and Marie Adam-Leenaerdt, who aren’t at their very first shows but as young designers are already at a good level of maturity in their approach to their collections. Both were particularly sharp. Alain Paul’s ballet background nourishes his collections and gives a very clear and compelling storytelling angle. Marie Adam’s collection was fun and strong, playing with versatility and functionality.

Impressions of the week: This historical fashion week was very eclectic and rich with so many relevant, personal propositions. It brought energy into the city, and we felt so much traction to fashion. The Lyas “la watch party” initiative and programming contributes to develop this fashion radiation. Paris was — more than ever — the capital of fashion.

Bosse Myhr, director of womenswear and menswear, Selfridges

Favorite collections: Dior, Thom Browne, Dries Van Noten, Junya Watanabe, Chanel

Favorite debut: For me, the standout debut was Dior. Jonathan Anderson built an entirely new world for the maison, first setting the tone with a beautifully crafted film honoring Dior’s heritage, and then unveiling his own vision for its future. Craftsmanship, attention to detail, and commercial appeal were executed to perfection in what promises to be a must-have collection for our clients.

Best show format: This season, Paris truly elevated the art of presentation. Valentino delivered one of the most impressive productions of the week, blending storytelling and spectacle with elegance and a “firefly lightshow” At Thom Browne, “aliens” walked the runway in beautifully tailored suiting sets and couture-like creations. And a fun detail was the seating at Miu Miu: the audience sat on tables, creating an unexpectedly intimate and playful show experience.

Top trends: Suiting and skirts, Margiela, Dior, Celine and Noir Kei Ninomiya, Balenciaga and Junya Watanabe, those are the brands to highlight here for me. 

Accentuated waists and padding, hourglass shapes like Dior, Thom Browne, Stella, Sacai, Mugler. Ruching and embellishment of fabrics like in Miu Miu and Dries Van Noten. Sheer fabrics were also present in most collections, Rick Owens a highlight for this trend.

Investment piece: Any statement piece and/or look from this season’s debut collections will make for a powerful wardrobe investment — the kind of item that defines both a designer’s arrival and a personal collection.

Budgets up or down: Across the board, the mood felt confident and aspirational. These were collections designed to inspire, signaling a strong buying season ahead.

New talent: Duran Lantink at Jean Paul Gaultier delivered a daring, confident start. At Alexander McQueen, Seán McGirr presented one of the favorite collections of the season, skillfully creating a beautiful collection. 

Impressions of the week: This was one of the strongest Paris seasons in years, a moment defined by renewal, creative energy and fresh perspectives. With so many new designers taking the stage, Paris reaffirmed its status as the beating heart of global fashion.

Roopal Patel, senior vice president, fashion director, Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus

Favorite collections: Matthieu Blazy for Chanel, Jonathan Anderson for Dior, Pieter Mulier for Alaïa, Anthony Vacarello for Saint Laurent, Pierpaolo Piccioli for Balenciaga.

Favorite debuts: Jonathan Anderson’s Dior debut was magnificent. It was chic, effortless and marked the dawning of a new era for the house. Matthieu Blazy turned the page, starting a new chapter at the house of Chanel going back to the core and essence of Gabrielle Chanel. What a beautiful new beginning. Pierpaolo’s Balenciaga debut was emotional and exquisitely crafted, showcasing his masterful color play and couture-level precision. Jack and Lazaro infused Loewe with their signature sleek, New York edge while staying true to the brand’s DNA.

Best show format: Saint Laurent’s hydrangea garden with Cassandre interlock under the shimmering lights of the Eiffel Tower was magnificent. Jonathan Anderson and Adam Curtis’ film, titled “Do You Dare Enter the House of Dior,” was genius. The orchestra of young children at Glenn Martens’ debut collection for Maison Margiela was heartwarming and felt good. 

Top trends: There has been a little bit of everything this season. Many of the collections felt very sensual with a focus on the body. From sculptural silhouettes from dresses to sculpted waist jackets with a lean pencil skirt to full-on volume skirts as seen at Chanel, Alaïa and Balenciaga. Lots of sheer and transparency in eveningwear, to peeks of skin here and there. Accent on the cheeks. There is a femme fatale feel with lingerie details. There is focus on texture with fringe everywhere. For day, for night, in bags and shoes. Colorblocking seen in bold pops of colors. Sport references with nylon track jackets, trenches and outerwear. Chic minimal tailoring. Surf and sea inspirations evoked a siren feel. Glamour for evening. For accessories, the lady bag, the soft clutch, demure lady-like pumps at Chanel and Dior, the fringe mule, the rose shoe at Dior and Givenchy and thong sandals. 

New talent: LVMH Prize winner Hodakova, Matières Fécales, Julie Kegels, Alainpaul

Impressions of the week: If there was a Paris Fashion Week for the history books, this was it. It was electrifying, exhilarating, full of creativity and incredibly emotional with so many heart-stopping moments. The standing ovations at Chanel for Matthieu Blazy, Dior for Jonathan Anderson, Pierpaolo Piccioli for Balenciaga and Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernando at Loewe brought so much love and connection. It is clear that the fashion landscape has changed with this new creative pulse and we are so excited to bring this to our customers. 

Maud Pupato, buying director for luxury womenswear, accessories and footwear, Printemps

Favorite collections: Margiela, Loewe, Saint Laurent, Givenchy

Favorite debut: Margiela definitely is one of the highlights. Dior’s premiere by Jonathan Anderson was perfection, the way he embodies the lineup mixing the different clothing categories — which is very different from Maria Grazia [Chiuri] — giving a new dynamic, modernity and playfulness to the brand. The Dior DNA is underlined with creativity and poetry. Accessories are strong and very desirable.

Best show format: Gauchere’s presentation was my favorite moment of the week, mixing culture and fashion, offering a touching ballet in collaboration with Benjamin Millepied. It was a different way to present the garments and their versatility, an invitation to move through sensuality with fabrics that adapt to your body.

Rick Owens was absolutely stunning, an emotional moment mixing music, staging, location…all the ingredients to highlight a strong and powerful collection.

Top trends: New femininity and sensuality, layering and textures, leather in every form and color, accentuated waists and interpretations of lace.

Investment piece: A shirt from YSL, multipocket jacket from Isabel Marant, chunky necklace from Givenchy or Chanel, white taped or textured jacket from Margiela, lingerie dress from Victoria Beckham, bindi embroidered top or scarf from Rescha, Dior waisted coat, deconstructed jacket from Hodakova, Loulou de Saison fringed top, something yellow from Loewe, a trench from Rick Owens, leather jacket from Celine or Balenciaga, statement earrings from Saint Laurent or Valentino, belted tailored pants from Miu Miu or Coperni, a scarf detail from Céline or Miu Miu and touches of red from Chanel.

Budgets up or down: Budgets are flat with an extra buffer for new talents.

New talent: Young designer Julie Kegels made her debut this season with a collection that celebrates the modern woman. It’s all about movement and transformation, how she switches from a daily uniform to shining at night.

Impressions of the week: This week feels so good. Fashion is alive and vibrant again. The new designers’ debuts mixed with the emerging talents are setting a very new positive dynamic, leaving once and for all the darker days behind us. Brands are expressing their creativity through their singularity, in opposition to several seasons of similarity. Women are empowered and sensitive at the same time. Bold leather pieces and delicate lace and transparency are alternating on the runways, respecting women’s [various] facets. Colors are back and smartly layered, sending an optimistic message.

Accessories are present but do not replace garments that remain the main focus. A new era for the industry is coming, and it’s very promising. 

Joseph Tang, fashion director, Holt Renfrew

Favorite collections: Celine, Dior, Chanel, Givenchy, Dries Van Noten

Favorite debut: In just 15 minutes, Matthieu Blazy changed the face of fashion with his vision for the house of Chanel. The collection delivered on the brand’s iconic codes while pushing it into a new renaissance. Jonathan Anderson also presented an exceptionally strong collection for Dior. Michael Rider’s vision for Celine exuded a refined sense of confidence. The collection felt like a beautiful continuation of the house’s DNA, infused with modern energy.

Best show format: Christian Louboutin stole the show with fashion week’s ultimate half-time performance. Under the visual direction of David LaChapelle, the presentation was a dynamic, creative take on American football, with Louboutin’s iconic red soles scoring big for the evening.

Top trends: Bold, bright colors dominated this season, with a strong return to color blocking in punchy, pop tones. We loved seeing this trend come alive in true summer style from Loewe, Dries Van Noten, Tom Ford, and Celine.

There was a renewed focus on couture shapes, with architectural lines, enveloping silhouettes, and new interpretations of the female form. A clear ’80s sensibility ran through many collections, but with a modern edge. Jonathan Anderson’s take on the bar jacket was a standout, alongside strong showings from Balenciaga, Chloé, and Alaïa.

Lingerie dressing continues to evolve, balancing sensuality with structure. We saw a beautiful fragility in lace and embroidery from Margiela, Tom Ford, Rick Owens, Valentino, Givenchy, and Chloé. Denim and fringe also made bold appearances. 

Investment pieces: A Celine color-blocked dress, Givenchy leather jacket with fringe mules, Dior plaid sandals and bar jacket, Dries Van Noten embroidered jackets, Tom Ford lacquered, laser-cut leather coats, Chanel crafted maxi skirt and suede bags, Miu Miu apron.

New talent: This has been a defining season, with a new wave of designer debuts reshaping Paris’ biggest fashion houses. There’s a clear return to purposeful, personal pieces crafted with care and intention. The collections celebrated artistry and authenticity, all while introducing fresh perspectives that speak directly to today’s luxury customer.

Impressions of the week: Lights, camera, fashion! It was a cinematic week in Paris as the schedule was bookended by two of the season’s most anticipated debuts. With Jonathan Anderson at Dior and Matthieu Blazy at Chanel, the city was burning with new ideas, innovative design, and a celebration of everything we come to Paris to see—fashion.

This season signalled reinvention. A monumental moment that allows us to bring something truly special and unique back to our customers. We’re leaving Paris invigorated and inspired to share this new fashion renaissance in our stores.

David Thielebeule, fashion director, Bloomingdale’s

Favorite collections: Chanel, Celine, Balenciaga, Loewe, Alaïa 

Favorite debut: Chanel was a triumph. When Matthieu took his bow, Paris exhaled — not just in relief, but in recognition. He’d pulled off the impossible.

Best show format: It has been difficult to fully engage with this extraordinary run of debuts and reinventions while dark headlines flicker on our phones. Only Alessandro Michele chose to meet that reality head on. His Valentino show began with a spoken word reading — Pamela Anderson voicing a 1941 letter by Pier Paolo Pasolini about light enduring through darkness. The message felt piercingly relevant, as did the collection: a more restrained, yet radiant continuation of Michele’s new Valentino. 

Top trends: Color came first this season — bold hues bursting across Loewe, Celine, Miu Miu and Valentino in a jolt of optimism. There was also a newfound ease: longer shorts and culottes everywhere, as if all of Paris had suddenly caught a California state of mind — relaxed, sunlit and cool. Rabanne even offered up wetsuits ready for the surf. From there, the mood turned tactile. Transparency drifted through Dior, Saint Laurent and Chloé in gossamer layers that revealed a floaty kind of allure, while leather — lightened up for spring — appeared in soft creams and chocolate, the unofficial non-color of the season. Fringe followed, rippling across hems and sleeves with a sense of motion and fun.

New talent: In a season defined by over-the-top experiences — from Saint Laurent’s gardens to Chanel’s journey through the cosmos — Meryll Rogge chose simplicity. Presented in the sunlit courtyard of the Hôtel de Soubise, her collection was precise, poised, and effortlessly cool. It was a reminder that, on occasion, the clothes alone are enough.

Impressions of the week: We certainly weren’t short on things to discuss this season. I can’t recall a time when opinions flew faster — every café, every car ride, every wait for a show turned into a roundtable on our industry’s new direction. It will take time for all this change to settle, and one wonders how clients will keep pace with such sweeping reinvention. But it was certainly a Paris trip to remember. And yet, flipping through Erdem’s new book with him in his showroom — a celebration of 20 years in business — I was struck by how steadfast his vision remains. In an age obsessed with change, perhaps the real act of modernity is staying true to yourself.