Jonathan Anderson’s sophomore collection for Dior emerged as the most frequently cited favorite overall from Paris Men’s Fashion Week, reaffirming its position as an anchor of the city’s season. Buyers were impressed by Anderson’s ability to balance heritage with modern relevance, with tailoring and proportions that resonated.
Willy Chavarria, meanwhile, was overwhelmingly named the show that best met the moment, praised for its emotional force, cultural clarity and creating a sense of community.
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Buyers believe this season marked a decisive return to dressing and tailoring and a broader move away from trend-led pieces toward collections that have personal emotional resonance and collections that favor longevity over novelty. To that end, they’re investing more deeply in outerwear, knitwear, leather and refined tailoring, while pulling back from logo-heavy pieces, novelty streetwear and trendy items that feel difficult to translate into everyday wardrobes.
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“Buying decisions are increasingly driven by versatility, wearability and clear brand identity rather than seasonal hype,” said Will Zhang, founder of SND China.
For retailers, there was agreement across the board that customers are looking for wearability and cohesion. Layering will be a key commercial tool, with mid-weight pieces, textured fabrics and modular silhouettes allowing customers to switch up their looks without having to buy in to novelty pieces. Buyers believe that this season’s texture, knits and outerwear will translate from runway to retail.
The cowboy trend is riding off into the sunset, and say bye-bye to Labubu, as novelty-driven charms and IP-led accessories finally lose momentum.
Below, buyers give their snapshot of the Paris men’s season:
Emmanuel de Bayser, co-owner, The Square Berlin
Favorite collections: Dior, Celine, Dries Van Noten, Sacai, Rick Owens
Trend that will matter: Ivy preppy look and statement knitwear.
Where are you increasing spend, or being more cautious? Increasing spend on bestsellers across all categories. Cautious with unwearable fashion items.
Categories in which you will place a deeper buy? Outerwear is always strong with us. There are investment pieces for our customers.
New discoveries or new brand buys: Not really this season. We already have wonderful novelties with the new designers in place at Dior, Celine and Dries.
What show best met the moment? The Dior show was amazing. J.W. Anderson is always fresh and desirable.
What shifted this season? The jacket is really everywhere. I’m very happy to see men dress up. Can’t wait to see what Saint Laurent will show us this season.
The season in one word, it would be: Refreshing.
Jian DeLeon, men’s fashion director, Nordstrom
Favorite collections: Dior, Celine, Rick Owens, Lemaire, Sacai
Trend that will matter: There’s no shortage of great leather jackets coming out.
New discoveries or new brand buys: Toteme is launching a men’s collection that we were really impressed by.
What show best met the moment? Auralee’s pops of color and rich textures juxtaposed with beautiful clothes perfectly balanced a sense of escapism with one foot firmly set in a world calling for clothing that doubles as a source of comfort and a reassuring confidence.
What shifted this season? Designers aren’t just content with making things well, but making garments that stand for something.
The season in one word: Hopeful.
Alice Feillard, men and shoes buying director, Galeries Lafayette
Favorite collections: Dior, Ami, Willy Chavarria, Lemaire, Dries Van Noten
Trend that will matter: Soft tailoring has become an essential part of the modern menswear wardrobe, offering greater versatility for both day and night. Tailoring is increasingly chic and refined, with a strong focus on sophisticated fabrics and thoughtful details. At the same time, it is evolving toward a more casual aesthetic: Suits are now mixed with workwear elements or styled in a preppy way, creating a more relaxed, effortless silhouette.
Where are you increasing spend, or being more cautious? We are getting more focused, while investing deeper and cross-category in brands performing well to ensure a better representation. Investing deeper in some key categories such as knitwear, denim, leather, loafers and sneakers.
Categories in which you will place a deeper buy? Leather and shearling jackets, puffer jackets in a wider range of colors, denim, soft cashmere and chunky knits, soft turtlenecks. Suiting, double-breasted relaxed jackets, more fitted jackets, and loose, flared and corduroy pants. Soft suede loafers and low-profile sneakers.
New discoveries or new brand buys? We already saw him last season — this is his second show: Kartik Research presents Indian craft through a fresh and modern silhouette. We will see the collection closer in the showroom.
What show best met the moment? Definitely Willy Chavarria. It was a powerful performance — a kind of telenovela infused with Latin American performers and boy-band energy, filmed live and projected on a screen. The collection delivered striking looks and a highly sophisticated take on streetwear.
What shifted this season? Paris is undeniably THE fashion week, showcasing a perfect mix of mega brands, independent designers and emerging talents. Business and creativity are both here. Houses are reimagining masculine elegance, blending modern classics with ease and functionality.
The season in one word: Elevated classics.
Sophie Jordan, menswear buying director, Mytheresa
Favorite collections: Auralee, Dries Van Noten, The Row, Lemaire
Trend that will matter, or will pass? This season’s embrace of bold color will follow us into spring 2027 as the biggest carry-through; as an assertive rebound from quiet luxury this trend spans across subtler tones of military green and Bordeaux, to bold color-popping outfits with red still a key accent color, but also cobalt blue and flashes of acid lime as new introductions — these colors will likely continue but soften into lighter tones for next season.
I’m a fan of the Western trend for fall 2026, I’ve seen so much leather patch detail on jackets and puffers, but it’s a moment and this specific detail will likely feel dated quite quickly outside of the iconic brands with true history and identity in this aesthetic.
Where are you increasing spend, or being more cautious? We are investing more into brands that have a clear identity and demonstrate care and craft in their fabrications. This is what is resonating with the customer across every aesthetic, whether it’s The Row or A.Presse.
Overall, it felt like a strong season in the showrooms, but I have also seen more “anonymous” product within collections this season that lacks purpose and identity.
Bags are still underrepresented as a category within menswear; the business is so reliant on a few brands, I would love to be able to increase our spend and offer within beautiful luxury bags across price points and functionalities, but it’s a struggle to diversify this category offer in a quality, meaningful way.
Categories in which you will place a deeper buy this season? After two years of leather and shearling dominating the outerwear category this season there is a return to traditional outerwear; wool and cashmere overcoats, down jackets, parka shapes. It was a diverse offer to suit all needs but rooted in everyday functionality and utilizing for work and weekend wear.
Soft loafers are another category that we will continue to invest more in this season due to consistently strong performance and the continued trend of relaxed yet more formal daywear driving even more customers to buy into this style of footwear and less reliance on sneakers.
New discoveries or new brand buys? Salon C Lundman continues to be one to watch within menswear, I love the feeling of simplicity in his pieces, but that is only possible by such attention to detail and to fabrications, fit and quality execution. The collection is the perfect capsule of “one of everything please.” Aldo Maria Camillo is another brand I am watching closely due to its elegant silhouettes and sensibility.
What show best met the moment? Lemaire staged their runway performance this season in collaboration with Nathalie Beasse. The models interacting with each other throughout the show brought a different energy to the auditorium.
What shifted this season? The focus was on everyday, real-life clothing. Within this there was a new bravery with color, which was refreshing to see. There was bold color but styled in a way that felt approachable and realistic. I also saw a more formal feel for everyday dressing, with a lot of long tailored coats with coordinating pants, styled with shirts and ties. This look was about colors rather than black; it’s not corporate, it’s modern in softer grays, browns and sage tones. Footwear is also embracing a smarter look; we are in the post-sneaker moment with development in shoes focused on loafers, derbies and boots this season.
Brands have truly embraced the expertise and knowledge behind unique and luxury fabrications this season, as we see male customers becoming enthusiasts around certain categories and functions, such as watches or technical ski. This level of research can now be embraced into more categories and functionalities across his wardrobe, if he so chooses.
The season in one word: Color!
Young-Su Kim, senior vice president, general merchandise manager, men’s and men’s fashion director, Bergdorf Goodman
Favorite collections: Willy Chavarria, IM Men, Dior, Dries Van Noten, Lemaire
Trend that will matter: The return to dressing, specifically tailoring as fashion and the renewed focus on jackets, trousers, topcoats and refined proportions feels intentional and enduring, rather than trend-driven. As customers continue to move toward a sleeker silhouette and more considered wardrobes, this emphasis on elegance, structure and versatility will have real staying power beyond the runway.
What show best met the moment? Willy Chavarria’s incredible production best met the moment. The scale and execution were impressive enough, but the world that he was able to create through the clothing, music and media were masterful and complete. It was a much-needed reminder of the power of menswear to convey a sense of identity, culture and community.
What shifted this season? The shift this season was toward more refined dressing, not as a passive reaction to moving away from casualwear, but as something intentional and exciting.
The season in one word: Refinement.
Simon Longland, director of buying – fashion, Harrods
Favorite collections: Louis Vuitton, Dior, Junya Watanabe, Lemaire, The Row
Trend that will matter, or will pass: What stood out most was a refined approach to layering — mid-weight pieces designed to work together, offering flexibility, comfort and longevity. Combined with a clear emphasis on softness and tactile luxury, this feels far more relevant than seasonal statements. On the other hand, overly narrow or excessively fitted silhouettes feel limiting and difficult to translate into real wardrobes.
Categories in which you will place a deeper buy? Rather than leaning into specific categories, our buying will be driven by confidence in collections. We will invest more deeply where there is clarity of vision and a strong connection to our customer, prioritizing product that feels meaningful beyond one season.
New discoveries or new brand buys? The debut of Toteme menswear was particularly compelling. It demonstrated a clear point of view, strong product and an understanding of the modern man that aligns very naturally with our customer — one of the most convincing new propositions for FW26.
What show best met the moment? Hermès felt exceptional. The final collection of designer Véronique Nichanian after 37 years at the helm of the house’s menswear was both emotional and incredibly assured, revisiting key codes while reinforcing why consistency, restraint and excellence continue to resonate so powerfully today.
What shifted this season? There was a noticeable shift toward designing with the customer firmly in mind. Broadly, collections felt less driven by trend and more focused on creating pieces with purpose — clothing intended to be worn, lived in and valued over multiple seasons rather than defined by the moment alone.
Isla Lynch, buying director, Ssense
Favorite collections: Ssstein, Dries Van Noten, Sacai, Hermes, Lemaire
Trend that will matter, or will pass: Trend: material and craft-led design; pass: passive quiet luxury.
Where are you increasing spend, or being more cautious? We are increasing spend across a handful of strong emerging brands from Japan, while being more cautious on anything with overnight ‘hype’ – trends are dying quicker in this hyper-online era.
Categories in which you will place a deeper buy this season? Outerwear and investment leather jackets remain pillars of our fall 2026 buys.
New discoveries or new brand buys? Salon C Lundman is an incredible new brand that we’re keeping an eye on and Literary Sport for an elegant view across sports and running.
What show best met the moment? Hermès.
What shifted this season? Moving away from hyper-criticism toward a culture of support and goodwill for creative directors.
The season in one word: Considered.
Chris Mcilroy, menswear buying director, Harvey Nichols
Favorite collections: Dries Van Noten, Auralee, Lemaire, A.Presse, IM by Issey Miyake
Trend that will matter: Worked denim will matter, with distressing that feels lived-in. Layering too, especially shirts designed to sit on top of each other without being overly styled. Understated leather also felt strong.
Categories in which you will place a deeper buy? Denim, versatile trousers, and easy shirting. Those are the areas we’ll lean into. Less of a focus on hero pieces, more on styles that work well together when building out your seasonal wardrobe. Outerwear worked best where it was simple and well-cut.
New discoveries or new brand buys? Post Archive Faction stood out. Strong shapes, good balance, and easy to see how it can fit into your wardrobe.
What show best met the moment? The Willy Chavarria show felt energetic while still considered. The move toward sleek tailoring, a more restrained palette and clean silhouettes made it feel relevant rather than theatrical.
What shifted this season? Paris felt more focused. There was clearer intent behind the collections, with theater being used more deliberately rather than for impact alone.
The season in one word: Optimistic.
Bosse Myhr, director menswear, womenswear and childrenswear buying, Selfridges
Favorite collections: Sacai, Louis Vuitton, Dior, Junya Watanabe, Comme des Garçons
Trend that will matter, or will pass: Innovation as a trend in cuts and materials. Shorter boxy shapes in outerwear, for example, I think is here to stay — whereas the skinny coat trend is probably one that will be around for not so long.
Where are you increasing spend, or being more cautious? New brands are what I am excited about. From Japanese brands like A.Presse for example. Plus, brands that feel like long-term pieces of clothing that will last a long time and withstand the change in trends, like The Row.
I’m cautious with brands that maybe had a tougher time keeping up with customers’ sentiments and needs.
Categories in which you will place a deeper buy this season? Outerwear, leathers and shearlings, but as well iconic pieces that make a up a brand’s foundation and base. For example, Acne’s signature trompe l’oeil denims.
New discoveries or new brand buys? Yes — Oscar Oyang, a brand based in London but showing in Paris, impressed me a lot. In streetwear, a Korean brand called Thug Club also caught our attention.
What show best met the moment? Sacai had so many desirable pieces in the collection it will be difficult in the showroom to decide from so many good looks and options.
What shifted this season? Jonathan Anderson’s Dior collection was another big departure, pushing creativity to the forefront. It felt like a big shift overall that our customers are surely going to respond to positively.
The season in one word: Exciting!
Franck Nauerz, head of men’s fashion, Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche — La Samaritaine
Favorite collections: Dior, Louis Vuitton, Sacai, Rick Owens, Dries Van Noten
Trend that will matter, or will pass: The trend that will matter most in six months, for winter ’26, is the strong ’70s and heritage influence, expressed through a confident elegance with a subtle, slightly offbeat twist. It comes through in beautiful materials such as wool, velvet and leather, slightly more tailored silhouettes, and the addition of fresh pops of color that modernize the overall look.
On the other hand, the return of the sports tracksuit feels less relevant and is one to pass on, as it does not align with the sense of elegance that usually defines our wardrobe.
Categories in which you will place a deeper buy this season? Definitely checked shirts and Prince of Wales suits, especially in tone-on-tone executions. There is also a strong comeback of the Harrington jacket, slightly cropped, developed in more technical fabrics such as nylon, or in wool for a more elegant silhouette. Finally, as every winter, wool knitwear, particularly polo-cardigans, will be a key element of the wardrobe this season.
What show best met the moment? Dior brought a strong sense of novelty while remaining deeply rooted in its heritage, with clear references to the house’s archives and former creative directors. Louis Vuitton delivered the elegant, refined tailoring that we always particularly appreciate. Finally, Dries Van Noten introduced a welcome burst of color and freshness, offering a renewed energy to the brand.
What shifted this season? I felt a real shift in the overall freshness of the season. There was a noticeable return of color and, for some brands, more tailored silhouettes, less understated than in previous seasons, without becoming overly expressive. This evolution brought a strong sense of novelty and a welcome freshness to the winter season.
The season in one word: Heritage / Freshness / Elegance
Victor Poulsen, buyer for men’s luxury and designers, Printemps
Favorite collections: Willy Chavarria, IM Men, Dries Van Noten, LGN Louis Gabriel Nouchi, Ssstein
Trend that will matter, or will pass: Men’s bags will continue to grow in importance, including mini formats. Accessories are becoming essential to the silhouette. On the other hand, the cowboy trend feels saturated and is clearly on its way out.
Where are you increasing spend, or being more cautious? We are increasing investment in standout, exceptional pieces designed for our most demanding clients. These strong fashion statements remain key for Printemps. We are more cautious about over-investing in jersey, which feels less relevant this season.
Categories in which you will place a deeper buy? Knitwear, without hesitation.
New discoveries or new brand buys? Yes — Paris always delivers. This season, we’re excited about Again (again.lab), whose collections draw inspiration from the French countryside with a fresh, contemporary sensibility.
What show best met the moment? Willy Chavarria, without any doubt.
What shifted this season? The strong presence of Latino designers in Paris felt like a real shift, notably through Willy Chavarria, Patricio Campillo and Guillermo Andrade of 424.
The season in one word: Warmth — in both human connection and in the garments themselves.
Bruce Pask, AVP men’s fashion office, Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus
Favorite collections: Willy Chavarria, Dries Van Noten, IM by Issey Miyake, Rick Owens, Sacai
Trend that will matter, or will pass: While the fuller, more relaxed proportions that have dominated designer runways for many seasons are not going away, a trimmer, slimmed-down silhouette took the focus this season. From tailoring to denim and especially overcoats, this streamlined look seen in influential collections from Dior, Junya Watanabe, Acne and also in Milan, is building traction and has potential for longevity. The skinny jean has maintained its importance to the customer over many years and this expansion upon that aesthetic has an appealing familiarity.
As far as a “pass,” anything that feels fussy or overwrought does not feel compelling. This is a time for ease.
What show best met the moment? Willy Chavarria’s “Eterno” was an operatic celebration of Latin culture, music, his fantastic couture, workwear and Adidas collections. It rivaled the best of The Met in its sweeping, relevant cultural context, virtuosic performances by seven top Latin artists, the spectacular scope of the set and choreography, and most importantly, its strong message of the beauty and power of love, community and connection.
What shifted this season? Rather than a dramatic shift, there has been an evolution in the Paris market over recent seasons where the multibrand showrooms have gained great importance and are a vital companion to the runway shows. As a true global market, visiting these showrooms to scout for brands and to view new collections from all over the world has become a vital part of the Paris Fashion Week experience.
The season in one word: Individuality.
Görkem Şahin, general merchandising manager — designer men’s, Beymen Group
Favorite collections: Sacai, Lemaire, Rick Owens, Ami Paris, Wooyoungmi
Trend that will matter, or will pass: One trend that will matter in six months is elevated everyday uniforms — relaxed tailoring, refined knitwear and modular layering — that feel purposeful and wearable. One that’s a pass is the novelty streetwear pieces that feel trend-dependent, rather than wardrobe-building.
Where are you increasing spend, and or being more cautious? We are increasing in outerwear, knitwear and elevated casual tailoring with strong fabrication and longevity, while being more cautious in logo-heavy items, statement pieces and trend-led footwear with a short lifecycle.
Categories in which you will place a deeper buy? Elevated overcoats, relaxed trousers, knit polos and tops, hybrid jackets and versatile layers that transition easily between seasons and occasions.
New discoveries or new brand buys? As a new discovery, Auter, designed by Rob Zangardi, stands out for its ability to balance a cool, modern attitude with smart, functional design. The collection’s versatility allows for multiple styling possibilities, while the outerwear in particular impresses with its high-quality materials, thoughtful fittings and strong attention to detail. Wooyoungmi continues to emerge as a quiet leader in modern menswear. Sacai’s evolution feels particularly strong and commercially relevant this season.
What show best met the moment? Lemaire, which was presented in Opéra Bastille. The show was done like a theatrical performance instead of a traditional runway. It is understated, confident and deeply aligned with how men are actually dressing now — emphasizing restraint, proportion and timelessness.
What shifted this season? There was a clear move away from spectacle and performative runway moments toward restraint, clarity and confidence in the product itself. Designers seemed more focused on proportion, fabrication and precision. The emphasis shifted to longevity and real-world wearability, through a more mature, thoughtful approach to menswear and a recalibration of what feels relevant now.
The season in one word: Refined.
Joseph Tang, fashion director, Holt Renfrew
Favorite collections: Dior, Dries Van Noten, Sacai, Hermès, Rick Owens
Trend that will matter, or will pass? Paris this season focused on intelligent shifts in tailoring rather than trend-driven statements. Designers including Ami, Sacai, Dior, and Louis Vuitton presented looser silhouettes grounded in structure and precision. Voluminous overcoats, wider trousers, and relaxed tailoring felt considered and controlled, reinforcing a sense of confidence.
Where are you increasing spend, or being more cautious? Fall is truly the season for outerwear, and we continue to curate a selection of coats and jackets that balance fashion with functionality. Pieces that offer layering potential and technical innovation.
Categories in which you will place a deeper buy this season? Modern tailoring is a key growth category. This season redefined the idea of the suit through versatile separates and softened structure. Junya Watanabe, Dries Van Noten, and Sacai each presented compelling approaches that feel relevant to how men dress today.
We are also leaning into textural essentials such as leather, brushed wool and Donegal tweeds, and shearling.
New discoveries or new brand buys? Kartik Research stood out for its clear commitment to craft, fabric sourcing, and ethical storytelling. We continue to seek brands with authentic narratives and integrity in production.
What show best met the moment? Willy Chavarria delivered a powerful balance of fashion and theatre, grounded in a strong cultural and emotional point of view. The live performance amplified the brand’s identity and clearly articulated its values and personality.
What shifted this season? There was a noticeable shift toward intentionality over spectacle. Collections felt more edited, more serious, and more purposeful. Designers focused on meaning, craftsmanship, and emotional resonance rather than chasing viral moments. Clothing carried weight visually, culturally, and commercially.
The season in one word: Freedom.
Paris reflected a pivotal moment in menswear, where fashion feels increasingly democratic and expressive. The creative energy this season signaled confidence, openness, and a renewed sense of possibility for a new generation of customers.
David Thielebeule, fashion director, Bloomingdale’s
Favorite collections: Dries Van Noten, Sacai, Willy Chavarria, Jacquemus, Hermès
Trend that will matter, or will pass? Timeless, refined classics are the prevailing mood and feel poised to remain relevant well beyond the season. A renewed focus on tailoring reinforces the idea that investing in well-made, enduring pieces is always a smart choice. I’d pass on anything overly bold or exaggerated and keep it calm and considered.
What show best met the moment? Willy Chavarria’s certainly met the moment, he balanced cultural urgency, emotional resonance, and commercial clarity in a way few others achieved this season. Staged at the Dojo de Paris as a fully immersive, livestreamed “living film,” the presentation went beyond spectacle to deliver a powerful message of inclusivity, community, and hope—values that feel especially vital right now. The clothes reinforced that relevance, spanning sharply executed tailoring, streetwear, workwear, and eveningwear, all grounded in the timeless, streamlined tailoring that continues to dominate Fall 26. In a season defined by a return to classicism and restraint, Chavarria stood out not by being louder, but by being clearer—pairing refined wardrobe staples with a human, all-walks-of-life narrative that felt authentic, modern, deeply resonant, and a lor of fun. Funnily enough, Chavarria’s spirit was perfectly encapsulated a few days later at Sacai, where a T-shirt at Chitose Abe’s show read, “What you’re thinking is what you’re becoming.” Fashion shaped not just by aesthetics, but by intention, conviction, and belief in something bigger than clothes.
What shifted this season? In Paris, we’ve seen a clear return to classicism. While there are subtle shifts in silhouette and meaningful advancements in fabric and texture, the prevailing theme has been fresh interpretations of wardrobe staples. The result is fashion that feels restrained and intentional—unchallenging, minimal, and tasteful, with a quiet confidence and a humble sense of charm.
The season in one word: Timeless.
Will Zhang, founder, SND China
Favorite collections: Auralee, Dries Van Noten, Lemaire, Taiga Takahashi, Our Legacy
Trend that will matter, or will pass: Upgraded athleisure will continue to matter. It reflects a shift toward everyday dressing that balances comfort, function, and design. Rather than full athletic looks, the focus is on thoughtful mixing: sportswear elements integrated into daily wardrobes, often elevated through richer fabrics, stronger color choices, and improved construction.
IP-driven charm trends, such as Labubu, feel largely saturated and are likely to cool off within the next six months. While playful accessories still have a place, their moment as a key styling focus might be fading.
Where are you increasing spend, or being more cautious? Our overall OTB remains stable. While the market continues to be cautious, we are investing selectively in strong core brands and emerging labels with long-term potential. Buying decisions are increasingly driven by versatility, wearability, and clear brand identity rather than seasonal hype.
Categories in which you will place a deeper buy? We are placing a deeper focus on outerwear this season. Coats and jackets are essential in delivering a strong fall/winter identity, and remain one of the most season-specific categories compared to items that can transition into warmer months.
New discoveries or new brand buys? Khoki (Tokyo). Founded in 2019, Khoki is a Tokyo-based design team whose members previously worked at established Japanese luxury brands. The label blends modern design language with traditional craftsmanship, incorporating techniques such as quilting, kantha embroidery, and suzani stitching into relaxed yet thoughtful garments. It represents a compelling direction of “new casual” with depth and cultural sensitivity.
What show best met the moment? Willy Chavarria. The FW26 show stood out as a fully immersive presentation, blending fashion with theater, music, and performance. Staged in a transformed judo hall into a “Barrio”-inspired setting, it carried strong cultural and social resonance. Live performances by Mon Laferte, Feid, and Mahmood, along with Julia Fox appearing in the runway casting, reinforced the show’s emotional impact and cultural relevance.
What shifted this season? There was a noticeable shift toward clarity and intention. Many brands moved away from big shows, focusing instead on honesty, emotion and real-life relevance.
The season in one word: Grounded.
— With contributions from Samantha Conti, Lily Templeton, Jennifer Weil, Alex Wynne and Tianwei Zhang.