LONDON — London Fashion Week had a jam-packed schedule and shows were taking place all across the city, from East London to South Kensington.
There was the leather craftsmanship of Leo Prothmann to the quiet and clashing elegance of Nanushka.
Below, five brands you may have missed that are worth noting.
Johanna Parv
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Johanna Parv has mastered the art of clothing for a woman on the go. The Fashion East alumni and a former runner is known for using technical fabrics to create traditional womenswear — blazers, trousers, shirting — with a sportswear bent. She built on that this season, introducing a new bag that can be slung over the shoulder or strapped on to a bicycle. Perfect for an early morning Lime ride into the office.
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Leo Prothmann
Frequent Rick Owens collaborator Leo Prothmann is known for his leather craftsmanship. With a background in showjumping, he said his interest in leather stems from riding horses for over 10 years. “I love the smell of it. I love how durable it is. We ride on horses with it forever. It doesn’t break, if you take care of it — and you can treat it, mold it, distress it,” he said ahead of his show on Saturday night. There, he showed off a collection that eschewed gender norms and championed sculptural leather pieces.
Maximilian Raynor
“Too many 8-pound pints and tube strikes have made me a Londoner through and through. But with this collection, I delve into my roots as a Derbyshire boy,” wrote Raynor in his press release. The Central Saint Martins graduate did that by imbuing his sculptural shapes with textural materials inspired by houndstooth coats, leopard shirts, and twinsets made by his grandmother.
Lueder
Designer Marie Lueder was inspired by a melange of things this season — intimate gatherings, medieval carnivals, intense football matches. Some of that came through at her runway show, in which models stomped through broken wine glasses and onto tables. She focused on closet staples and loungewear this season, which featured fun graphics and text, like: “Beats are back.”
Nanushka
Nanushka’s founder and creative director Sandra Sándor chose Cuban-born designer Clara Porset as her muse this season after visiting an exhibition on craft at the MoMA. She used weaving and clashing prints throughout the collection. A polo shirt was turned into a dress with crochet detailing. The sporty element was a wink to the guests, which included athletes Jurrien Timber, Aggie Beever-Jones and Hamza Choudry.