CHICAGO — Denim still reigns in the closets of women across the U.S., but it took a backseat to streamlined knits and sophisticated fabrics at the fall edition of the Stylemax show here.
“The world has been taken over by denim,” said Harold Roth&enberg, owner of Hersh’s in Bloomfield, Mich. “[Stores] need to build themselves back into wardrobing. Everything has gone too casual and it’s hurting the industry.”
Rothenberg need not worry based on the selection at the show, which ended its four-day run April 4 at The Merchandise Mart.
The in-your-face embellishment of seasons past was replaced by a more refined look, featuring sleek silhouettes cut from luxurious fabrics. Some examples were a rich tapestry coat and silk puff-sleeve blouse at Sara Campbell, Philip NYC’s flowing burnout silk dress and a cream wool wrap coat from The People Have Spoken featuring layers of mini ruffles on the oversized collar, cuffs and hem.
“People are tired of all the bling,” said Amy Ryan, owner of Top Drawer, Springfield, Ill. “Things seem to be going back to basics. It’s sophisticated. The customer is ready for that cleaner look.”
Like Rothenberg, Ryan left orders at Steve Mirkin’s showroom, choosing knitwear from Teri Jon. She was also impressed with the fabrics that created interest from cutouts rather than added embellishments.
“The silhouettes are a little different this season,” said Tesy Mitchell, showroom manager for Jeffrey Schwager, whose space demonstrated that with pieces from Marianne Chace such as high-waisted jumpers and coats in wool and corduroy with velvet and leather accents. “[Buyers] seem to be interested.”
It might help that manufacturers are starting to acknowledge the need for lower price points and more generous fits. Many boutiques are now up against trend retailers like H&M and Target that can turn around the latest runway looks for under $50. Plus, Midwestern retailers have long been sensitive to serving women of varying body shapes.
“Some of the companies are getting smart and are cutting their items bigger,” said Sue Conway, buyer for Among the Pines in Baxter, Minn. “It’s been delightful and our sales are up.”
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Susan McCullough, vice president of apparel, Merchandise Mart Properties, which produces Stylemax, said, “People seem to be invigorated. There’s a lot that’s new in the market. Things just look fresh.”
Also looking fresh was the latest update to Stylemax, Pure Contemporary, a remerchandised area that grouped contemporary designers and manufacturers. About 30 new booths, representing 100 new lines, were featured in the expanded space. Canadian retailers also made their mark, combining forces under a new “Wear? Canada!” campaign.
“Since we started our rep locator program, the number of reps handling Canadian lines has increased fivefold,” said Ann F. Rosen, business development officer for the Canadian Consulate General. “This year we partnered with the Canadian Apparel Federation to maximize our brand in the marketplace. The result was more resources, more advertising.”
Mala Kuja Moda, based in Yaletown, British Columbia, was displaying its line of bamboo and soy apparel for the first time in Chicago.
“It’s great to be able to show the diversity of so many companies coming out of Canada,” said Katarina Jestadt, chief executive officer. “It’s a great opportunity for us, especially since the majority of buyers seemed upbeat for the year ahead, despite a less-than-stellar first quarter.”
Top Drawer’s Ryan, whose shop was unscathed from a tornado and a blizzard in March, said, “The last few months have been hard for retailers. But I think people are ready to spend again and with the trends changing so dramatically, moving away from denim, I think people are going to have to start buying.”