Newcomer or seasoned, young or not so young — that’s not the point when it comes to putting lesser-known designers on the radar. What matters is what they have to offer. Here, WWD features a handful of names that often go unnoticed amidst the helter-skelter show calendar. In more ways than one, these lines are gaining fashion momentum and branching out into new markets.
Designer: Gianni Guaglianone
Label: G. Guaglianone
History: Born in Cosenza, Italy, Guaglianone, 36, studied at the Royal College of Art and later formed his fashion aesthetic working at Cerruti and Donna Karan.
After going solo with a men’s wear line in 2001, London-based Guaglianone decided to channel his tailoring expertise into women’s wear, unveiling his first collection for fall 2005.
Related Articles
The brand is licensed to Moda 5, an apparel manufacturer based in Vicenza, Italy.
You May Also Like
Design philosophy: First and foremost, Guaglianone advocates Coco Chanel’s belief: “Wear an ugly outfit and it will get noticed. Wear something lovely and it’s the woman who will get noticed.”
Guaglianone believes in laid- back couture that favors Sixties sculptured silhouettes, boxy jackets with big buttons and little dresses — think Kim Novak. Nothing too institutional, but versatile and universal styles create an understated look that the wearer should personalize.
Summer highlights: Imagine Grace Kelly and Rita Hayworth on a safari romp — that’s Guaglianone’s spring inspiration. Graphic proportions play on contrasts with evening fabrics that aren’t conventionally used for HotPants, and red and pink bibs temper razor-sharp blouses inspired by Picasso’s Cubism.
General info: The line was snapped up by retailers such as l’Eclaireur in Paris, Dantone in Milan, Blake Chicago and Janet Brown in Port Washington, N.Y. Wholesale prices range from $165 for a blouse to a max of $761 for coats.
Designer: Francesco Scognamiglio
History: Born in Pompeii, Italy, in 1975, Scognamiglio opened a small studio in his hometown in 1998 while collaborating for Versace. Though he staged his first show in 2001, he is now gaining international momentum.
Design philosophy: He designs for a practical woman who likes a dose of conceptual fashion in her closet, new volumes each season and small elements that make the difference.
Scognamiglio likes to blend soft fabrics like jersey with more structured materials to create a sculpted effect.
Summer highlights: Scognamiglio was inspired by the monochromatic hues of young contemporary artist Terence Koh. The idea is to give his clients a sense of uniqueness and spirituality, via all shades of white, followed by tobacco brown, dove gray and onion pink.
General info: Wholesale prices range from $229 for a draped jersey top to $1,522 for a silk evening gown. Stores include Sotris in Athens and Tufano in Pompeii.
Designers: Belgian accessories designer Vinciane Stouvenaker, 34, and Rome-born Massimo Mariotti, 43
Label: De/Couture
History: After consulting for Versace, Cerruti, Romeo Gigli and Ruffo, the duo launched De/Couture in 2005. The brand was one of three winners of July’s edition of the Vogue Italian-sponsored Who Is on Next contest. “We believe that bags are one of the most significant and requested fashion items,” said Mariotti.
Design philosophy: They reinvent and deconstruct bags in an innovative way while applying erstwhile manual techniques used in saddle-making. Some of the bags, in fact, are fully handmade.
Spring highlights: Classic styles with chain-mail insets, gold-tone leathers, deep jewel tones and oversize volume.
General info: Wholesale prices average $318, but balloon to $508 for handmade styles. The line is carried at Mix, San Francisco, Searle Blatt & Co. in New York and La Vetrina di Beryl in Milan.
Designers: Maurizio Modica and Pierfrancesco Gigliotti
Label: Frankie Morello
History: Initially a performer, choreographer and set and costume designer, Modica collaborated with Alessi housewares before studying fashion. Gigliotti is an architecture graduate from Milan’s Politecnico Institute.
The duo met in the U.S. in 1997 and launched Frankie Morello — the name purposely has an Anglo-Italian flair. The year after came a men’s wear collection, followed by a full women’s line in 2004. Since 2005, it has been produced and distributed by Gilmar Group.
Design philosophy: The pair blends fabrics, themes and colors, especially in an incongruent and eclectic manner. The collections usually have an artsy vein and small details often become distinctive elements.
Summer highlights: A sporty chic attitude distinguished by exaggerated volumes, tromp l’oeil pleats, geometric insets and contrasting colors such as gunmetal and pearl gray combined with geranium red.
General info: Since Frankie Morello decided to make inroads in the U.S., its efforts haven’t gone unnoticed. It counts some 35 sales points including Stanley Korshak in Dallas, Traffic in Los Angeles and French Corner in New York. Wholesale prices range from $64 for a T-shirt to $888 for constructed jackets and dresses.
Designer: Alessandro De Benedetti
History: Born in Genoa, Italy, this 35-year-old designer started his career designing for underground magazines. After studying fashion at the Istituto Marangoni, he cut his teeth chez Thierry Mugler and went solo in 1998. Only last year, though, with the support of fashion manufacturer Gentex, did he seriously expand on the fashion scene.
Design philosophy: De Benedetti describes his fashion vision as “Goth-sensual,” with a diva undercurrent. “I like women with a strong personality, between the aristocratic and the burlesque,” said De Benedetti. “A femme fatale with a retro appeal, like a Hollywood diva from the Forties.”
Summer highlights: The spirit is that of magician Houdini and the Surrealism of the Twenties, Thirties and Eighties. Key elements are ultra-precious miniskirts, gold-tinted jeans, beige and brown optical prints and peacock green.
General info: Wholesale prices range from $108 for a cotton poplin blouse to $825 for a denim jacket with gold embroidery. Points of sale include H Lorenzo, Los Angeles; Dantone, Milan; L’ Eclaireur, Paris, and Villa Moda, Dubai.