NEW YORK — The growth of the fine jewelry category showed few signs of slowing for the holiday season at last week’s JA New York Summer Show at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center.
Attendance was up 7 percent compared with 2004, totaling 13,900 visitors, said Nancy Robey, group vice president of the VNU Expositions Jewelry Group, which produces the show. Some 1,800 vendors were at the event, 50 more than last year, and for the first time, Couture show exhibitors gathered along with the International Jewelry Design Guild to display their goods on the upper level in the convention center.
“It’s a good show for us,” said Janice Winter, president of Judith Ripka. “The luxury consumer is out there, and they’re buying.”
However, some buyers and vendors said JA had become more of a regional event and that business was quiet.
Jamie Camche, co-owner of JL Rocks, with stores in Greenwich and Westport, Conn., said vendors complained about traffic.
“But as retailers, we were overjoyed,” Camche said. “It’s the time for us to really look for direction. We get the time to shop, look and relax.”
Robey said, “We have retail attendees from all over the country. New York is the major diamond center of America. We have more retailers coming in from the East Coast, because it’s more convenient.”
Jim Rosenheim, chief executive officer of the Tiny Jewel Box in Washington, D.C., noticed lots of orders being taken.
“[Other retailers] said that in early spring business was soft, and perhaps they were reluctant to buy in the spring [at the JCK and Couture shows in Las Vegas],” Rosenheim said. “Now they’re willing to buy.”
Trends like black jewelry and hand-tooled yellow gold remained strong, while new trends, including vintage-looking locket pendants, emerged at Penny Preville, Doris Panos and Julie Baker.
“Lockets are timeless, romantic and beautiful. It goes back to the period clothing we’re seeing,” said Penny Preville, co-owner and designer of the eponymous company.
Also prevalent at the show were chokers coupled with long, layered necklaces, as well as earth-toned stones set in yellow gold, which were showcased by companies including Gurhan, Michael Beaudry and Judith Ripka.
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Jade made an appearance at Lagos and Tutti Frutti, which showed either orange or green jade ornaments in the shape of Chinese characters or Buddha charms combined with amethyst and citrine in shoulder-duster earrings.
Chaaya Kapadia, designer of Maya Jewels, made her debut at the show, showing a 1,000-carat rough-cut aquamarine necklace, among other pieces.
“If designers have any talent today, now is their opportunity,” said Marie Helen Morrow, owner of Reinhold Jewelers in San Juan, Puerto Rico. “People want real: real workmanship, real stones and something unique and different.”