SYDNEY — Considering Julia Smith’s only sales outlet in her hometown is a Sunday market stall at Bondi Beach, it’s no surprise she’s not yet a household name in Australia.
Although the 27-year-old Sydney resident might be having trouble getting appointments with Australian department stores, her romantic, girly-looking lingerie in Liberty florals and ginghams is selling at 21 major stores in 10 countries, including Henri Bendel in New York and Le Bon Marché in Paris.
Smith, a graduate of East Sydney’s TAFE Fashion Design Studio, launched her first 10-piece collection of lingerie in late 2002.
“I wanted to do something that was quite quirky and different, and I decided to start with lingerie because it wasn’t very big and didn’t need much space,” said Smith, whose silk rosebud-embellished collection of hipster knickers, bloomers, camisoles and gingham baby dolls were immediately picked up by several London boutiques, as well as the Top Shop specialty chain.
Smith subsequently set up a retail stall at Portobello Road markets in London, and in January 2003 took her second collection of 20 styles to the Who’s Next in Paris trade show. This time she added silks and Liberty floral cottons, more baby dolls and lots of butterfly-sleeve tops, palazzo pants and Victorian camisoles.
Since then, Smith has been on a roll. She has exhibited twice at Who’s Next, as well as the Tokyo International Fashion Fair; Lyon, Mode City in Lyon, France; Prêt à Porter’s Pick & Mix in Paris, and the trade fair at the Mercedes Australian Fashion Week here in May.
Every style is decorated with at least one tiny silk rose.
“I can’t help it,” said Smith, who has worked out of her beachside home in Sydney since December. “If you’ve got it in your drawer, you want to keep it open, so everyone can see. It’s not to be hidden away.”
Smith’s lingerie retails from $39.95 for a plain Liberty cotton knicker up to $239 for a silk nightie with butterfly sleeves. Gingham or Liberty-print frilly hipster knickers of cotton that are double-lined sell for $60. The knickers can double as swimwear, she said.
Bestsellers include striped French knicker cotton shorts with silk satin ribbon trim that retail for $42 and a Fifties-inspired halterneck bra for $64. Smith would not give a wholesale volume, but annual revenues are estimated at more then $200,000, according to industry estimates.
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“It’s quite cute and flirty and comfortable, designed for the girliest of girls, but you don’t have to be a girly girl to wear it, you can mix and match,” said Smith. “England is like a huge influence on my signature.”