NEW YORK — Disloyal shoppers, celebrity overload and fur’s popularity are some of the factors affecting the outerwear business as executives gear up for the key fall selling season.
Consumers’ nondiscriminatory approach to shopping is the biggest factor affecting the outerwear business, according to Fredric Stollmack, president and chief executive officer of Weatherproof Garment Co. here. “On Monday, a woman could be shopping at Bergdorf Goodman, and on Friday, she is shopping in Costco. It’s all about how you position your goods. You need different labels, styles and concepts to be successful in the appropriate markets.”
In regard to the ongoing retail consolidation, Weatherproof is “carefully watching the market to see how everything falls out” to be certain its three labels — Impermeable by Weatherproof, Weatherproof and WP — are sold in the right channels, Stollmack said.
To spread the word about the company’s various offerings, it has more than doubled its marketing budget for fall. “Marketing has become a bigger piece of every manufacturer’s budget. In the long run, that’s what will pay off,” said Stollmack.
Weatherproof is in talks with “Today” show weatherman Al Roker about renewing his contract to appear in the brand’s ads. But everything is “very much up in the air” as to whether or not “Sex and the City” star Kristin Davis will appear in the brand’s ads again.
“We’re getting a little tired of celebrities. The celebrity push is so over the top, and it’s really starting to bother us,” Stollmack said. “It’s time to get another kick.”
An Icelandic label, 66°North, is tripling its presence in the U.S. market this fall. The performance-oriented brand’s women’s offerings will be sold in 75 stores, compared with 25 last fall. This year, U.S. sales are expected to climb to $1 million, said Sharon Prince, president of the North American division of 66°North.
Named after the latitudinal line of the Arctic Circle, 66°North was started in 1926 as an outerwear company geared for commercial fishermen. Hollywood filmmaker and Iceland native Joni Sighvatsson now owns the brand. To clue in Americans, a fall advertising campaign will break in the September issue of GQ and other magazines.
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The Icelandic label’s fleece jackets are much more fitted than traditional ones. The 25-piece collection wholesales from $50 to $200, with fleece jackets, performance shell jackets and Icelandic sweaters expected to be fall bestsellers, Prince said.
For fall, Cinzia Rocca, a high-end Italian coat label, continues to build its U.S. presence by opening new accounts such as Bergdorf’s. To step up its fashion quota, the company is offering more outerwear in rich jewel tones and specialty fabrics with intricate detailing.
The brand also is trying to bolster sales by selling a 10-piece jersey sportswear collection including halter tops, turtlenecks and blouses. Blazers are another important component of its business. About 25 percent of the 110 stores that carry the label have picked up the separates for fall, according to a company spokeswoman. Wholesale prices range from $110 to $400.
Fur accessories are another new initiative for fall. A mink stole, rabbit scarf and detachable fur collars are some of the offerings that enhance the versatility of Cinzia Rocca outerwear, the spokeswoman said.
Brioni, a ready-to-wear label that is known for its high-quality coats, has lined up Janet Brown, Stanley Korshak and Tootsie’s as some of its new accounts for fall. In addition to Brioni’s immaculately tailored jackets and coats, dresses are becoming more popular, a Brioni spokeswoman said.
“The luxury consumer tells us constantly at trunk shows how important the exclusivity of the Brioni brand is to them,” a company spokesman said. “Our motto, ‘To be one of a kind,’ has really hit home with the designer customer.”
Leather has become an important category for Brioni, as well, especially fur-lined leather coats, a fitted double-breasted leather peacoat with topstitching and “double coats,” a leather coat layered over a double-faced cashmere coat. Retailers have told Brioni executives that unusual leather pieces are often the first items to be sold once a new collection arrives, and price is not an issue, the spokeswoman said.
At Nili Lotan, a TriBeCa-based outerwear and ready-to-wear label, the company’s namesake said practically every fall order includes coats, especially military-inspired ones. European and Japanese stores have shown more interest in outerwear. The company is selling its outerwear to five times the number of stores it sold outerwear to last fall, Lotan said.
A double-breasted, knee-length peacoat with epaulets in Italian wool or a cashmere blend is a bestseller. Available in navy, black or green, the coat has red velvet trim. Wholesale prices range from $230 to $295, depending on the length.
To help shoppers find her collection, Lotan will launch a Web site, nililotan.com, with links to stores that sell her clothes online.
For the first time, Ugg Australia outerwear will be featured in Ugg Australia’s corporate fall campaign, which will break with a four-page spread in Vogue in September and will follow up with others including Teen Vogue in December. For its second fall season in outerwear, Ugg Australia will feature shearling vests in its ads.
Ugg Australia Outerwear, which is licensed to David Peyser Sportswear, plans to introduce its first spring collection in 2006. The outerwear company relocated to a showroom at 530 Seventh Avenue earlier this year.